Once used primarily as portable workstations for carving meat, tableside carts are being rolled out again by restaurants. These days, though, the effort is all about pizzazz and diner interaction. Weigh in as your waiter customizes your hummus, or select the add-ons as your sundae gets made. Here are four carts we like.
PRIME & PROVISIONS
222 N. La Salle St., Loop
The cart: A build-your-own sundae extravaganza, with 14 toppings ($18 for three scoops of ice cream; $30 for six).
What’s on it: As a rule, steakhouses are for grownups. But when the sundae cart rolls up, everyone becomes a kid again. You start with three Zarlengo’s ice cream flavors — vanilla, double chocolate, and strawberry — scooped into your glass bowl. Then come the toppings — as many as you want. Pick from gummy bears, brownie chunks, M&M’s, marshmallows, and more. The cherry on top of the whipped cream is, well, exactly that. Try not to squeal like a 5-year-old when the foot-tall sparkler speared into the sundae is lit.
Tip: Have the caramel sauce put in the bowl first. The cold will turn it into a brittle-like treat.
NAIA
300 N. La Salle Dr., River North
The cart: Hummus mixed to your specifications ($18 for two).
What’s on it: At this see-and-be-seen Mediterranean spot, the three very busy hummus carts pack a lot of ingredients onto their small surface. Your server will make the dip tableside: A cazuela holds cooked chickpeas that will get mixed with tahini, a drizzle of olive oil, and a dusting of lemon zest. Pickled garlic and fried chickpeas add texture. You can go as spicy as you like. The heat comes courtesy of red and green zhug, and your server can help you decide the right mix. Rounding it out: a copper pot with warm pita and jars of pickled carrot and red pepper spears for scooping.
Tip: Can’t snag a dinner slot? No worries. Weekend lunch is easier to get in, and the hummus cart is available then too.
ADALINA PRIME
360 N. Green St., West Loop
The cart: Signature shots shaken tableside ($9 each).
What’s on it: The circular Booze Cabooze, named for the Metra trains that run just outside this posh steakhouse, pulls up with five special shots to pick from, including the espresso-martini-inspired Spark Plug and the Southern Line, with bourbon, lemon, and peach. Your server, wearing a conductor’s hat, cheerily shakes them up in front of you. Adding to the festivities, a small portable speaker plays “Shots” by LMFAO. Dinner may be over, but the party is just getting started.
Tip: Got a birthday in the bunch? Let the restaurant know and you can choose the song. The guest of honor will also get an on-the-house coconut-and-strawberry soft serve — with sprinkles, of course.
THE IVES
12 S. Michigan Ave., Loop
The cart: A Wisconsin-supper-club-inspired relish tray, but fancy ($38 a person).
What’s on it: With 13 items, the cart at this restaurant in the Chicago Athletic Association serves up one vintage plate of joy after another. You’ll find seasonally evolving twists on old-school bites: The rumaki includes shio koji; the crudités are finished with dill pollen; the asparagus Oscar comes with Jonah crab salad; and the duck liver mousse is wrapped in strawberry-miso gel. As for that vase holding what appear to be decorative twigs? Those are two-foot-long pretzel grissini. No wonder the accompanying menu bears the Daniel Burnham quote “Make no little plans.”
Tip: The relish cart alone is enough for a full dinner. Pair with a Hemingway daiquiri.
Lisa Shames is a freelance writer for Chicago magazine.