ZAAB E LEE
3201 W. Lawrence Ave., Albany Park
Perfect order: Tiger cry, som tum pu pla ra, pla sam rod
It is unfortunate that Zaab E Lee’s pla sam rod, whole-fried tilapia in three-flavor sauce, does not come with wet wipes. But do not let this deter you from getting your hands dirty in the name of extracting every finger-licking morsel at this year-old northern Thai spot. Doused in a sweet-sour sauce beneath a confetti of fried shallots, cilantro, and cubed bell pepper, the dish is a taste and texture journey through craggy, drenched skin to sweet, moist meat.
It’s reason enough to dine at this carryout-heavy storefront tucked amid auto body shops. But want another one? Zaab E Lee’s interior hits you like a tropical serotonin injection: Umbrellas and paper lanterns dangle above hut-shaped booths with neon signs and vintage Thai license plates lining the walls.
Skip the Americanized Thai dishes in favor of anything deemed a “special” — code for the street food at which Zaab E Lee excels. Luscious tiger cry skirt steak appears herb-dressed as an appetizer or as a meal over tom yum fried rice heady with chiles and lemongrass. Fiery som tum pu pla ra (papaya salad with cherry tomatoes) sings of brackish sea thanks to anchovies and salt crab. Zaab E Lee is BYO, so pack ice-cold lagers or junmai ginjo sake — and a few wet wipes for that inevitable fish carnage.
Maggie Hennessy is a freelancer writer for Chicago magazine.
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