When Oktoberfest season hits full swing, there’s no better place to hoist a stein than amid the oompah tunes and rustling dirndls at charming Edelweiss, a Norridge institution that’s been dishing up hearty German and American fare since 1989. Cheesy spaetzle, a tangle of rustic noodles and Gruyère sauce that’s southern Germany’s answer to mac and cheese, is a menu mainstay here. Don’t let the notion of DIY noodles scare you off; the hand-mixed batter comes together easily, and while dedicated spaetzle-making tools exist, a no-frills stainless colander works just as well, as long as its holes are large enough.
Edelweiss’s Cheesy Spaetzle
MAKES: 6 side dish servings
TOTAL TIME: 1 hour 15 minutes
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: Stainless steel colander with large holes
| 1 cup | Wondra flour |
| ½ tsp. plus ⅛ tsp. | nutmeg, divided |
| ½ tsp. | salt, plus more for seasoning |
| white pepper, for seasoning | |
| 2 | eggs |
| 2¼ cups | milk, divided |
| 6 Tbsp. | butter, divided |
| 1 small | onion, minced |
| 1 small | garlic clove, minced |
| ¼ cup | cornstarch |
| ¼ cup | white wine |
| 1¼ cups | grated Gruyère |
| heavy cream, for thinning sauce | |
| crumbled bacon and sliced green onions, for serving |
1. Make the spaetzle: Fill a large pot halfway with water. Bring to a boil, then lower to a steady simmer. While the water heats, whisk together flour, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, ½ teaspoon salt, and a pinch of white pepper in a medium bowl. Whisk eggs in a small bowl. Add eggs to the flour mixture and stir to combine, then stir in ¼ cup milk. Set a colander on the pot. Scoop about a third of the spaetzle dough into the colander and use a rubber spatula to press it through the holes and into the water. Cook through, about 5 minutes, then use a slotted spoon to transfer spaetzle to a baking tray. Repeat until all the dough has been cooked.
2. Make the Gruyère sauce: Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a medium pot over medium-low heat. Add onion and garlic and cook until translucent. Add cornstarch and remaining nutmeg and cook, whisking frequently until smooth, about 3 minutes. Whisk in wine, followed by the remaining milk. Lower heat and continue cooking and whisking until sauce is thick and smooth, about 5 minutes. Add Gruyère and whisk until melted. If sauce is very thick, use heavy cream to thin. Season to taste with white pepper and a generous pinch of salt.
3. Finish the spaetzle: Melt the remaining butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add spaetzle and cook, stirring gently until heated through, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with the Gruyère sauce, bacon, and green onions.
Cate Huguelet is a freelance writer for Chicago magazine.