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The departure of executive chef Joe Flamm (who, happily, is staying in Chicago) might have raised concerns, but Tony Mantuano’s 35-year-old Spiaggia simply elevated former sous Eric Lees, who’s already impressing guest with his uncluttered, flavor-rich plates. Presented in a glorious, tiered dining room overlooking Oak Street Beach (“spiaggia” means “beach”) and backed by a stellar wine list, the dining experience here is tough to beat. Read Phil Vettel’s full review of Spiaggia here.

Restaurant details

Tribune rating: ? ? ? ? | Address: 980 N. Michigan Ave. | Phone: 312-280-2750 | Website: spiaggiarestaurant.com | Open: Dinner daily | Prices: Secondi piatti $18-$125; seven-course menu $95; 13-course menu $160 | Reservations: Available here.

Ratings key: ? ? ? ? outstanding; ? ? ? excellent; ? ? very good; ? good; no stars: unsatisfactory. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.

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