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Northwest Indiana is something of a stepchild to its own state. Neighbors to the south and east look to areas like Valparaiso, Munster and Hammond and see city runoff, an un-Hoosier-like area that is often othered from the rest of the state with a nickname: “The Region.”

But up in Roscoe Village, former Hoosier Curtis Rund is taking the name back with his new 12-seat restaurant, The Region, serving a proud northwest Indiana culinary tradition: the smashed hamburger.

For devotees of the thicker pub-style burger, smashing a burger might sound blasphemous, but there’s nothing irreverent about these pressed patties. Rund learned his craft in high school manning the griddle at Schoop’s, a regional Indiana diner-style burger chain known for mashing its meat. Time being a flat circle, he’s back cooking on the flat-top nearly 20 years later, now burger-ing full time. Despite the thinner approach, the burger is still juicy, but the best (and defining) part is the edge: crispy and crunchy, something like barbecue’s burnt tips, only still attached to the patty.

An 80/20 chuck blend from local Ellengee Market makes the 7-ounce burger tender in the center, and the brittle bits overflow from the edges of the bun (the heavier the smash, the larger the finished patty), made from a special recipe at Rudy’s Bakery and delivered daily by the 10-dozen.

The Region’s “everything” includes only raw onions, sweet relish and a house-made, mayo-based “Region sauce.” It’s the right move: The acidity of the onions cuts through the sweet relish, while the sauce smooths it all out. Just make sure you ask for cheese, which isn’t a given. Rund loves heat, so he offers jalapeno, habanero and insanity sauces that complement the “everything” preset. I found the hot options to be solid but unnecessary.

Word to the napkins, Region’s burgers are a literal handful — a greasy, messy, tasty indulgence.

The Region, 2057 W. Roscoe St., 773-857-2874

[email protected]
Twitter @lucheezy

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