Michelin award-winning chef Christian Hunter just opened his highly anticipated new restaurant in Chicago. Hooligan debuted in the Logan Square neighborhood on Oct. 1. Hunter describes the cuisine as “third coast contemporary,” featuring Great Lakes ingredients and classic French technique.
“The concept of Hooligan is definitely my brainchild,” said the chef, who calls the Black-owned business a “neo-Midwestern bistro.” He was previously executive chef and business partner at Michelin-starred Atelier in Lincoln Square, which closed in May. “The meaning behind Hooligan touches on a few things.”
It speaks to people who are seeking out dining experiences that have a little bit of easy elegance, maybe less pretentiousness, said Hunter.
“It also speaks to a bit of my own professional career in which I’m a kid from the South,” he said, “Specifically Kentucky and Tennessee.”
The food he came from and loved, and had always considered fine dining, was not appreciated professionally, said the chef.
“There weren’t a lot of African American chefs in my time coming up,” said Hunter. “I was always kind of feeling like a hooligan, like an outcast.”
The chef co-owns the restaurant with managing partner Tyrone Redic Jr.
“Our menu is fairly slim, but as far as favorites go, we have a really cool dish that I wasn’t sure was going to work out,” said Hunter. “We are making hush puppies out of hot water cornbread batter, which is a direct tie to my childhood.”
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They’re served with the chicken liver parfait snack alongside pimento cheese made from Wisconsin cheddar, and a seasonal jam made with aronia berries, also known as chokeberries for their astringency.
“This dish screams to me what the soul of Hooligan is,” said the chef. “Everything on that plate is saying, ‘Hey, we’re from here.’”
They’re using cornmeal from Janie’s Mill in downstate Ashkum and chicken livers from Crazy Cluckers Farm in Missouri.
“Then we have really fun profiteroles on the menu,” he added about the French cream puffs. “And we’re using Cahokia rice to make toasted rice and butter pecan ice cream.”
The grains are grown in southern Illinois.
“We finish it with what I’m calling liquid chocolate,” said the chef about the dessert. “And a little bit more praline pecan.”
It’s classic bistro, but the butter pecan has a historical flavor and reason behind it.
“I think a lot of African Americans grew up with butter pecan in their household,” said Hunter, who’s also the pastry chef. “It’s a little bit of a nod.”
Head bartender Aaron Michael Wells created The Hooligan cocktail.
“He said it’s like this really sexy kind of love child between a Manhattan and Old Fashioned,” said Hunter.
The drink is mixed with brown butter-washed rye whiskey, burnt honey and tarragon.
“You have a little bit of sweet, a little bit of bitter, a little bit herbaceous,” said the chef. “It’s very much me. I’m a little sweet, a little bitter, a little herbaceous.”
The nonalcoholic Ember & Orchard drink has also emerged as an early favorite menu item with deep flavors of roasted apple, black tea, ginger and smoke.
Hooligan is housed in a dramatic black building. The space seats about 50 with deep green velvet banquettes and only eight at the bar. Music pulls from a playlist that was the early ’90s soundtrack to Hunter’s childhood.
“I wanted it to be a very sensual experience,” he said.
General manager Marcus Brewer will most likely greet you, said Hunter, and interior designer Ariana Halimi helped bring the chef’s design of the space to life.
Diners will receive an amuse-bouche, a complimentary seasonal bite, recently a radish top gazpacho, or a burnt carrot and beet Caesar.
The Hooligan for two at $199 includes two oysters, your choice of two small plates, one large plate, half pours of wine and a shared dessert.
“It’s kind of a choose your own journey,” said Hunter.
Oysters can be substituted, but they’re always served dressed, currently with rutabaga mayo, barbecue spice and crispy potatoes.
“If I’m going to eat an oyster, I want a really luxurious bite that has all the textures in it,” said the chef. “That also gives you a little bit more joy.”
2528 N. California Ave., hooliganchicago.com
More new openings:
Dewey’s Cafe: Chef Riley Brown (Oriole) and sommelier Hannah Grossman (Monteverde) have created a calm neighborhood spot focused on seasonal produce. Dewey’s Cafe, named after their rescue dog
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, opened in Roscoe Village on Sept. 2. The small and thoughtful menu features a pakora and cucumber sandwich, with the vegetable fritter in ciabatta; a celery and nori salad with yuba tofu ribbons; and an iced melon matcha with fruit from Nichols Farm.2036 W. Roscoe St., 773-360-7086, deweyscafe.com
Little Betty Smokehouse: Pitmaster and chef Dominique Leach is dropping some barbecue knowledge at college with her wife and business partner Tanisha Leach. Little Betty Smokehouse started smoking at the University of Chicago in Hyde Park on Sept. 28. Open to the public, the food hall stall offers their flagship Lexington Betty Smokehouse signature wagyu dogs plus a new Betty taco, a Betty beef and more.
1133 E. 57th St. (Hutchinson Commons), dining.uchicago.edu
Taan: Thai American Chicagoan chef Chanita Chayaluk just opened her own restaurant and wine bar after a career in education and mental health. Taan began serving in Humboldt Park on Sept. 1. Look for whole deep-fried fish with fish sauce caramel and kohlrabi salad; and a bone marrow beef cheek fried rice, with a vegan option available.
2759 W. Augusta Blvd., 773-360-1292, taanchicago.com
In re-opening news:
Hackney’s on Harms: The former suburban speakeasy founded in 1939, beloved for their Hackneyburgers on dark rye bread and french fried onions by the loaf, fully reopened indoors and out after renovations in Glenview on Sept. 23.
1241 Harms Road, Glenview; 847-724-5577; hackneys.net
In memoriam:
Shonya “Chef Royce” Williams: Executive chef and owner of Soul Prime, who went viral after a visit by TikTok food critic Keith Lee in 2023, and recently moved her restaurant to West Town and reopened on Aug. 21, died suddenly, according to an announcement on her social media accounts on Oct. 5, with no cause of death disclosed. Homegoing services will be held at Progressive Life Giving Word Cathedral in Hillside on Oct. 19.
Do you have notable restaurant news in the Chicago area? Email restaurant critic Louisa Kung Liu Chu at [email protected].
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