If Margaret Pak could write her story in food, kadala curry — a comforting stew of black chickpeas in coconut gravy — would be a recurring motif. “It’s pretty near and dear,” the Thattu chef says, noting it first entered the plot as breakfast shared in the home of her in-laws in Kerala, India, and has been the sole menu constant throughout the restaurant’s metamorphosis from pop-up to food hall stall to brick-and-mortar. In other words, it’s a dish with depth built not only on a slow cook and warm spices but also on layers of memory.
Thattu’s Kadala Curry
Makes:2 servings
Active time:1 hour 15 minutes
Total time:2 hours, plus 8 hours for soaking chickpeas
| ¾ cup | dried kala chana (black chickpeas) |
| 2¾ tsp. | kosher salt, divided, plus more for seasoning |
| 1 tsp. | coriander powder |
| 1 tsp. | Kashmiri chile powder |
| 2 tsp. | meat masala (like MDH brand) |
| ½ tsp. | turmeric |
| ½ tsp. | black pepper |
| 6 Tbsp. | coconut powder |
| 1 Tbsp. | coconut oil |
| 1 tsp. | mustard seeds |
| 2 cups | julienned red onion |
| 2 sprigs | curry leaves, stems removed |
| 1½ tsp. | minced serrano chile |
| 1½ tsp. | minced ginger |
| 1½ tsp. | minced garlic |
| 1½ cups | diced tomatoes |
| ⅓ cup | coconut milk |
1. Cook the chickpeas: Place chickpeas in a large bowl and add cold water to cover by 3 inches. Soak for 8 hours, then drain and rinse. Place chickpeas in an Instant Pot with 1½ cups water and 2 teaspoons salt. Cook in high pressure for 25 minutes, then allow pressure to release naturally. Drain and reserve liquid. Set aside.
2. Dry-roast the spices: Heat a small pan over medium-low. Add coriander and toast, stirring frequently, until darkened, about 30 seconds. Stir in Kashmiri chile powder, meat masala, turmeric, and black pepper and immediately transfer spice mix to a small bowl and set aside.
3. Make the coconut paste: Wipe out the pan and return to medium-low heat. Add coconut powder and toast, stirring frequently, until browned, about 3 minutes. Cool, then process in a spice grinder until a paste forms. Set aside.
4. Cook the onions: In a medium pot set over medium, heat coconut oil until it shimmers. Add mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, about 30 seconds, add onions and ¾ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are deep brown and reduced by three-quarters, about 45 minutes.
5. Make the curry: Stir coconut paste into onions and cook until oil begins to separate, about 3 minutes. Add curry leaves, serrano chile, ginger, and garlic and cook until the raw smell dissipates, about 1 minute. Stir in spice mix, followed by tomatoes and ½ cup chickpea liquid. When gravy has a spaghetti-sauce-like consistency, about 8 minutes, add chickpeas and return to a simmer. Stir in coconut milk and simmer, thinning with more chickpea liquid if needed. Taste, add salt if desired, and serve.