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We wish we still lived in an age when dim sum carts clattered through vast dining halls, but lacking that bit of theater, we’re grateful for the high-quality plates this restaurant prepares daily. In a setting that looks more like a clubstaurant rather than a traditional Cantonese teahouse, a busy kitchen works hard, sending out scores of steamy dumplings and buns: shumai and har gow chock-a-block with chunky shrimp are exemplary for when you’re in the mood for something traditional. Don’t overlook the more creative offerings, though, such as crisp cubes of turnip cake in a lip-tingling XO sauce and pea sprouts wrapped in an egg crepe. There’s a solid Cantonese menu with the likes of duck tongues come dinnertime.