Piece specializes in New Haven-style pizza, so it would basically be a crime if the Bucktown joint didn’t offer clam and bacon as toppings ($25.50 for a large). For the uninitiated, the clams mostly meld into the background, offering a slight and attractive brininess to each bite. That allows the smoky, fatty bacon to run free, adding pops of pure porky indulgence. I realize it sounds as if it shouldn’t work, but this is my go-to order here from now on.
1927 W. North Ave., 773-772-4422, www.piecechicago.com
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