With a kiss of Southern charm in a graceful beach community, Amelia Island is a world away from glitzy South Florida. Luckily, it’s only a five-hour drive up the Sunshine State’s east coast, making this barrier island a welcome getaway for families looking for a beach holiday with a genteel flavor.
This former home port to pirates and scallywags has developed into a welcoming locale that is repeatedly named one of the Top 10 islands in the United States by Conde Naste Traveler.
Home to towering oaks dripping with Spanish moss, the birth of the modern shrimping industry and endless varieties of cheese grits, Amelia Island offers many luxurious experiences without a snooty feel.
We stayed at The Ritz-Carlton (www.ritzcarlton.com/AmeliaIsland), which has a relaxed, family-friendly air without skimping on sumptuous amenities. Young ones ages 5-12 can hang out in The Ritz Kids Club, which offers scheduled daytime crafts and activities in a jaunty, maritime-themed room, and a Parents Night Out. Star-gazing, pirate tuck-ins, storytime and S’more-making are held throughout the year. An indoor pool offers a break from the sun, and a lavishly-landscaped outdoor pool has a sand play area and splash pool.
Just a short walk north from the resort’s beach boardwalk is Peter’s Point, an animal-friendly area where locals bring dogs to play in the surf. We were there to meet the folks from Stay’N Country Ranch (
www.siteskins.net/stayncountryranch
) for a horseback ride along the beach at one of the few places in Florida that allows it.
Kids 9 and older can ride, and those who are skittish can be connected to the guide with a lead line. Though none of us had any riding experience, my husband and kids and I mounted our horses in the parking lot and followed our guide to the surf, where we were treated to the sights and sounds of the crashing waves as we ambled down the beach.
Back at the Ritz-Carlton, we changed into our swimsuits and headed to saltwater pool, where attendants laid out crisp white towels on royal blue cushioned lounge chairs. A line of tween girls sipped virgin pina coladas in the indoor hot tub. A dad tossed a ball to his son in the pool, and a girl used the resort’s sand toys to build a castle in the play area.
That night, we dined at the resort’s Café 4750, where the Friday Endless Seafood Buffet included sautéed lobster tails and grilled beef tenderloin.
The next morning, we drove to the north end of the island for an Eco Shrimping Tour with Amelia River Cruises and Charters (www.ameliarivercruises.com). During the two-hour journey, we glided by the old seaport town and the island’s paper mills before heading out to view saltwater marshes, oyster beds and neighboring islands. Captain Kevin entertained with tales of pirates and the shrimping industry before turning the microphone over to Justina, a marine scientist who pointed out local wildlife and flora.
Dolphins crested near the boat as we neared the oyster beds, and Justina pointed out the spoonbills resting in a tree nearby. The crew lowered an otter trawl net in the water, and the kids were delighted with the catch – horseshoe crabs, brown shrimp, a tiny stingray and baby flounder, among other sea creatures. The bounty was deposited into small handheld aquariums that we passed around for a peek before releasing the creatures back into the water.
Back on land, we dug into a hearty Southern lunch of fried shrimp, fish and traditional fixings (including cheese grits) at Marina Seafood Restaurant on Centre Street in the picturesque downtown of Fernandina Beach. Then it was off to another adventure.
Amelia’s Wheels at the Omni Amelia Island Plantation resort (www.omniameliaislandplantation.com) offers a Segway tour of the grounds. If you haven’t done this before, it’s a lot easier than it looks, and it’s a lot of fun. After a training session and some practice, we headed through paved, winding walkways along velvety green golf courses, an extensive saltmarsh and an enchanting stretch of towering oak trees.
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For dinner, we opted for Slider’s Seaside Grill (www.slidersseaside.com) for its laid-back vibe, tableside beach playground and stunning views of the ocean from the second-story balcony. The hush puppies dipped in the house remoulade sauce were a favorite. There’s also live music nightly.
Our last morning, we explored Centre Street, where quaint Victorian shops display a vintage vibe. We sat in a lovely, tree-covered patio at Café Karibo (www.cafekaribo.com) for Sunday brunch – delicate shrimp salad, a hearty shrimp and grits, house-baked muffins and one last dish of cheese grits.
“We didn’t like it at all,” I joked with the server as she cleared our empty plates. As with most of Amelia Island, we savored every morsel.
For information about Amelia Island, visit www.ameliaisland.com.