When shopping for deodorant, men and women often find brands divided along gender lines: blue versus pink, mountains versus flower petals, spicy musk versus powder fresh.
But some deodorants, particularly among the natural and aluminum-free set, strive to appeal to both sexes. These are the ones in green, orange or white packaging that smell of lemongrass, grapefruit or green tea.
Unisex deodorants represented 18 percent of U.S. deodorant launches last year, up from 10 percent in 2008, according to Taya Tomasello, director of beauty innovation for the Americas at market research firm Mintel.
Much of the change likely comes from women seeking man-level deodorant strength without the manly aroma, Tomasello said. But there has also been rising interest in gender-neutral scents. Launches of unisex fragrances increased 40 percent globally in the last year, and 15 percent in the U.S., Tomasello said.
For those conditioned through decades of marketing campaigns to think that the sexes have unique and separate deodorant needs, it prompts the question: When it comes to armpits, are men and women equal?
Pretty much. There are two kinds of sweat glands at work in the armpit. The eccrine glands, found all over your body, produce an odorless watery sweat, meant to cool you. The apocrine glands, found mostly in your armpits and groin area, secrete an oily substance that produces body odor.
The average man sweats, in watery eccrine gland terms, four times more every day than the average woman, said Dr. David Pariser, dermatology professor at Eastern Virginia Medical School in Norfolk, Va., and past president of the American Academy of Dermatology. But the active ingredients used to combat wetness, aluminum salts such as aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate that plug up sweat glands, are the same in antiperspirants made for men and for women. Variations in strength exist in both categories, but there’s little difference in function or effectiveness along gender lines, Pariser said.
When it comes to apocrine gland odor, which is influenced largely by hormones and diet, there are no blanket disparities between the sexes, as each individual is distinct, Pariser said. (Not everyone agrees: A Swiss study last year found that when men sweat they smell like cheese and women like onions.)
For the most part differences in deodorants are in the packaging and the scent, Pariser said, the latter of which is made to smell masculine or feminine.
For those who want to smell neither like sandalwood nor like strawberries, we tested five unisex deodorants, reviewing scent, comfort and effectiveness. Because most are aluminum-free, these are just deodorants, not antiperspirants.
Five to try
Malin and Goetz Eucalyptus Deodorant
Scent: When you smell the stick itself, you’re hit with an overpowering menthol aroma — think Vick’s VapoRub. But once it’s applied, it’s subtle, pleasant and forest-y.
Comfort: This alcohol- and aluminum-free deodorant, which uses natural eucalyptus extract and odor-neutralizing citronellyl, glides on smoothly like a cross between a stick and a roll-on. The elegant packaging, sleek and somehow modern, makes you want to leave it on your bathroom countertop for guests to admire when they visit.
Effectiveness: Odor protection lasted all day, through 90-degree days and a trip to the gym. No white marks. But a layer of moistness remained on the skin.
Cost: $18 at malinandgoetz.com
The Body Shop DeoDry Chilled & Breezy deodorant
Scent: Refreshing, beachy and reminiscent of sea spray, this was the most masculine of the scents tested, a kind of eau de boyfriend. In a good way.
Comfort: The patent-pending DeoDry, which contains no aluminum salts, calls itself a “dry-effect” deodorant, using volcanic minerals to absorb moisture. It contains aloe vera, glides on smoothly and doesn’t sting.
Effectiveness: The breezy scent remained strong all day and barely faded. No white marks. But it did leave a sticky film, so the “dry effect” wasn’t so dry.
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Cost: $8 at thebodyshop-usa.com
L’Occitane Aromachologie Purifying Deodorant
Scent: The combination of cardamom, lemon, lavender, rosemary and eucalyptus creates a sweet aroma that evokes a cross between a flower-filled garden and a freshly mowed lawn.
Comfort: It’s a roll-on, so applying is a rather wet experience that requires you to hold your arms aloft for a few minutes before it dries. But there was no stinging even on freshly shaved armpits.
Effectiveness: Once dry, this deodorant did a very good job of keeping skin fresh and dry all day, with no stickiness. It was the only deodorant tested that contains aluminum chlorohydrate, found in antiperspirants. Scent lasted powerfully all day. The drawback is that it left a dusty white residue on skin and clothes.
Cost: $16 at loccitane.com
Tom’s of Maine Calendula
Scent: Made with sage and lemongrass, it has a somewhat spicy scent akin to that of a citronella candle.
Comfort: The all-natural deodorant, which uses hops to inhibit the growth of odor-causing bacteria, pulls a bit when you apply and leaves a waxy film but doesn’t sting at all.
Effectiveness: While odor protection lasted all day, the scent faded and was practically indistinguishable after a few hours. The waxy film did last, though.
Cost: $5.49 at tomsofmaine.com
Nature’s Gate Asian Pear & Red Tea
Scent: The brand makes several gender-neutral scents using certified organic essences, including “chamomile and lavender” and “grapefruit and wild ginger.” Among the most distinct is “Asian pear and red tea,” which has a cinnamon aroma reminiscent of winter holidays.
Comfort: Paraben- and aluminum-free, using baking soda to help neutralize odor, the stick glides on smooth but sticky.
Effectiveness: The scent was very subtle when applied, almost to the point that you couldn’t smell it, but odor protection lasted all day. Stickiness lasted all day also.
Cost: $5.99 at natures-gate.com
Tribune photos by Michael Tercha