Accanto Logan Square Chicago mini-review

Accanto’s chocolate lava cake

For almost 13 years, Lucky Vito’s, on the corner of Milwaukee and Talman avenues, has churned out popular pick-up and delivery pizza—a perfect fit for the hood. Six weeks ago, Lucky quietly morphed by half into Accanto: a snazzy dining room with Domenico Acampora, a globetrotting Italian chef, at the helm. Logan Square-ites ready for a break from pizza now have a crack at the likes of tender, lean pan-roasted venison chop in a dark chocolate and juniper berry reduction and a springy risotto with white celery, pecorino, and pear sorbet. They can finish off with warm chocolate lava cake cleverly sided with chocolate shavings, Tahitian vanilla coulis, strawberry rum coulis, and a scoop of mango ice cream. Who’s lucky now? 2171 N. Milwaukee Ave.; 773-227-2727.

Photograph: Anna Knott