Grilling was made for these times.
Actually, it was made for all times, but particularly for those with economic struggles. Cooking with fire goes back to the days of the woolly mammoth, but during more recent millennia, the most prevalent meats for grilling were the cheaper ones — the very kind many of us are turning to as food prices soar at a much hotter rate than our incomes.
“Barbecue was originally designed for the disenfranchised,” said Steven Raichlen, author of the recently updated “The Barbecue! Bible” (now in its 10th year). “The ribs and the briskets weren’t going to the masters.”
True, except that these days, once-inexpensive cuts — pork ribs, flank or skirt steak and even the once-lowly Cornish game hen — cost several times as much as they did a decade or so ago.
But there remain plenty of ways to combine frugality, fire and flavor, especially important as you prepare Labor Day menus. And just like in the old, cheaper days (not so long ago), the items best suited for grilling are the cheaper cuts.
Take ground beef. The extra-lean stuff is great for concocting some hockey pucks, while the fattier meat, whose grease adds sizzle and smoke to the process, produces spot-on burgers if cooked correctly (and to at least 160 degrees).
Same goes for fowl. Chicken breasts are notoriously ill-suited for grilling. Meanwhile, the more reasonably priced dark meat is a grillmeister’s pal.
Pennywise options extend beyond meats. Vegetables — show of hands: who out there doesn’t love grilled corn? — and fruits are gaining great favor by the fire. So are salads featuring charred greens. Grilled pizzas with fresh ingredients (although any meat toppings should be pre-cooked) and quesadillas with leftovers are “great fast food, and something people don’t scoff at anymore,” Raichlen noted.
But when most folks think hibachi heaven or kettle karma, there’s usually protein involved.
So here are some tips on burnishing your grilling skills without busting your wallet:
Pork: Baby-back ribs have skyrocketed in price, and even country-style ribs have risen markedly. Truthfully, though, most pork cuts, even tenderloin, give decent bang for the buck. Your best bets might be ground pork or getting some cheaper pork chops and brining them in saltwater for 12 to 24 hours before grilling.
Fowl: Chicken thighs are still a relatively good buy, and whole chickens thrust onto a beer can are an increasingly popular grilled entree. For those who think it actually has flavor, ground turkey is not a bad way to go.
Beef: Even brisket is getting expensive, but it goes a long way by feeding a crowd or providing tasty leftovers. Raichlen heartily recommends tri-tip, which you might want to call ahead for at the grocery. “It’s the cut that cooks like steak and slices like brisket,” he said. Another option is short ribs, best made with indirect grilling or in a smoker.
Seafood: Few foods from the oceans are a bargain. But alternating chunks of seafood (swordfish, salmon, or even shrimp or scallops) with veggies on a skewer provides decent economic mileage. Larger pieces of that most perennially underrated of freshwater fish, catfish, is a dandy option with a glaze or rub on the outside.
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Quick and easy grilling ideas
*Punched-up burgers: Coarsely chop 3-4 shallots and toss with 2-3 tablespoons steak or barbecue sauce and 2 pounds ground beef. Form into patties, season with coarsely ground black pepper and grill, adding a slice of cheese or a dab of butter on top near the end if you wish.
*Round steak: Pound 2 pounds round steak to 1/2-inch thickness and marinate in a non-reactive container for 1 to 2 hours. Grill about 5 minutes per side.
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*Turkey drumsticks: Mix 1/4 cup sweet hot mustard, 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce and 2 teaspoons each vegetable oil, coarse salt and black pepper. Rub onto six turkey legs and marinate 1 to 2 hours in the refrigerator, then grill about 40 minutes, turning so all sides are cooked.
*Brine for pork: Combine 1 gallon water, 1 cup salt, 1/2 cup brown sugar and 1/4 cup whole cloves in a pan and boil. Let cool, then soak pork chops in brine 12-24 hours in the refrigerator. Remove, pat dry, season if desired and grill over a medium fire until done.
*Pop-can chicken: You’ve heard of the beer can chicken? This time try orange or lemon flavoring with orange soda or other citrus soda (such as Sprite) or lemonade. Rub a whole chicken with olive oil, salt and pepper, and pull the bird’s cavity down over a half-filled can of orange soda or lemonade. Place in the center of a grill set up for indirect heating, balancing on the two legs, and cook, covered, about 11/4 hours, until thigh juice runs clear (internal temperature should be 165 degrees). Remove and let rest 10 minutes before carving.
*Grilled pizza: Roll out prepared pizza dough whether homemade or commercially made (Pillsbury has one in a can to make at home) and brush with oil. Grill 1 minute on each side, then turn and put mozzarella cheese and other toppings of your choice on top and cook until cheese is just melted.
*Quesadillas: Sprinkle a 10-inch tortilla with 1/2 cup cheese, 2-3 tablespoons chopped pepper (hot, mild or both) and leftovers (meats or veggies of your choosing, chopped). Place on a metal grill tray. Top tortilla with a second tortilla (or fold the one with toppings over). Grill 2-3 minutes each side, being careful when flipping. Cut into wedges and serve with salsa, guacamole and sour cream.
*Skewers: Cut cooked chorizo (a highly seasoned Mexican sausage) into 1/3-inch slices and alternate on skewers with 1/2- to 3/4-inch balls of cantaloupe and honeydew. Brush lightly with oil and grill until fruit is lightly caramelized, about 3 minutes per side.
*Onion medley: Cut sweet onions into quarters and place in aluminum foil. Sprinkle with olive oil, salt, black pepper and balsamic vinegar (a cheap one is OK). Wrap up foil and grill 15 minutes per side.
*Squash: Halve 6 summer squash (zucchini, crookneck or other) lengthwise. Brush with olive oil and season with black pepper, if desired. Grill 3 minutes per side. Meanwhile, mix 1/4 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons each red-wine vinegar and fresh lemon juice, a minced garlic clove and pinches of salt, black pepper and ground red pepper. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the grilled squash.
*Peaches: Cut four peaches in half, remove pits and toss with just enough olive oil to coat. Grill 4 minutes per side and remove; while they’re cooling, blend 1/2 cup thinly sliced basil and 1/4 cup mascarpone, placing a dollop on each peach half.
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Grilled Korean-style short ribs
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Marinating time: 2 hours
Cooking time: 8 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Handle the chili pepper with care; the oils remain on your fingers and will irritate your skin. Adapted from “Grill It!” by John Willoughby and Chris Schlesinger.
3 pounds beef short ribs, 1/2-inch thick
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 hot chili pepper, seeded, minced
1 piece (2 inches long) ginger root, peeled, minced
1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons each: sesame oil, white vinegar, crushed red pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1. Place the short ribs in a large bowl. Combine the garlic, chili, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, crushed red pepper, sugar and salt in another bowl; set aside a little to use as a basting sauce later. Pour marinade over the ribs, tossing or turning them to coat. Cover; refrigerate 2 hours, turning once or twice.
2. Prepare a grill for hot, direct heat. Remove the meat from the marinade; pat dry with paper towels. Grill ribs 3 minutes or until they are well-seared on one side. Turn; cook 3 minutes (for rare) or until desired doneness, basting with the reserved sauce during the last minute of cooking. Transfer the ribs to a platter; cover loosely with foil. Set aside 5 minutes (the meat will finish cooking). Cut the meat between the bones into individual ribs.
Nutrition information per serving: 817 calories, 81% of calories from fat, 73 g fat, 30 g saturated fat, 154 mg cholesterol, 2 g carbohydrates, 36 g protein, 314 mg sodium, 0 g fiber