The scene: After a mere quarter century or so in the same location, Ann Sather on Belmont Avenue moved to a new location last week (it’s fourth Belmont address in 62 years). But if you were living outside of Chicago for a while — in Sweden, let’s say — and on your return you immediately hit this classic Swedish breakfast and lunch spot, it might take you a few moments to even notice. After all, the new location is only a block farther east on Belmont. It’s still got that stenciled Swedish script bordering the ceiling. The Swedish folk art mural is still there (owners brought artist Sigmund Arseth over from Sweden to recreate it). But this is indeed a new spot. There’s less space, more light and a semi-open kitchen that makes for a cacophonous morning meal. When we asked people in line if they were going to miss the old location, they shrugged. Eh, the last location wasn’t even the first — the original, opened in 1945 by Ann Sather herself, was a few blocks west.
The cuisine: Yes, the cinnamon buns ($3 for 2; pictured) still are gigantic — and still a bit overrated. (Try the $2.95 pecan roll for a change!) The turkey Benedict ($9.50) also is the same as ever: dry. Fortunately, the Swedish pancakes with lingonberries ($7.50) remain divine.
The wait: Seating is first come, first served. You don’t need to put your name on the list — just be patient. At 12:48 p.m. on Sunday, we waited 13 minutes for a table. But we hope they can get an awning at the new spot. With its smaller foyer, we were left shivering in the rain, making the wait seem much longer.
The Juice
Ann Sather
909 W. Belmont Ave
773-348-2378
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RATING
2 (out of 4) eggs
Loved it: More natural light!
Hated it: More kitchen clanging!
Brunch time: 7 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Cost: About $12 per person
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