2002 Bonny Doon The Heart Has Its Rieslings

We know, we know. The wine’s name is impossibly cute. But our cynical attitude was soon wiped away by this charmer from the quirky Bonny Doon winery in California. Made from Eastern Washington State grapes, it has a pearlike aroma and a tart taste balanced nicely with sweetness.

For Valentine’s Day dinner, match it with dessert. Or could we suggest a cheese course? Pair it with a salty blue. Or go all out and serve it with foie gras. It’s difficult to find in this area, but Schaefer’s Wines & Liquors in Skokie has it for $18 and in Chicago, Carnival Grocery Store has it at $15.