Itsy-bitsy Costa Rica has a big decision to make.
Should this Central American country of only 3 million people stay just the way it is-low-key, unpretentious, a paradise for beach freaks, surfers and lovers of jungle ecology? Or should it become the Next Big Thing-downplay its adventurous aspects, attract American hotel chains, go for the big package tours, and become the new Cancun?
Travel tip: See Costa Rica now, before it becomes another Latin American theme park.
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On a recent vacation in this bucolic little paradise, my wife and I visited an active volcano, several rain forests and some of the most spectacular beaches this side of Hawaii. We also saw an incredible variety of wildlife, including flocks of macaws, monkeys, sloths, numerous lizards and iguanas, uncounted varieties of birds and enormous, but non-threatening, tropical insects.
All this in a country the size of West Virginia that is politically stable and predominantly middle class, and where more than 10 percent of its mass has been set aside as national parks, reserves and wildlife refuges.
The down side? The roads stink, and if you’re the type who likes the removed-from-reality aura of Ixtapa and Cancun, Costa Rica is not for you. But if you’re up for a little adventure, it shouldn’t be missed.
Here’s how to take your Tico (a name given to the natives) vacation: Use the capital of San Jose as a hub for day or overnight trips; or travel to three or four specific sites.
In either case, despite the poor roads, you’ll be able to take advantage of a transportation and tourist infrastructure second to none. Costa Ricans enjoy a cheap and safe bus system that goes to just about every town in the country. There’s an internal airline, Sansa, which flies to all the must-see spots. Scores of tour operators provide reasonably priced guided tours-ranging from half a day to overnights-to all the major attractions.
What to see? You can check out San Jose, an ugly and crowded city that nonetheless has a vibrant street life, interesting central market and a few worthwhile museums (the pre-Columbian gold museum is noteworthy). But that’s one day out of your trip. Fact is, you’ll want to zip through the capital so you can visit at least several of Costa Rica’s don’t-miss sites:
– Volcanoes: There are three of them, still active, and all within a short distance of San Jose. Irazu stands more than 11,000 feet tall. Poas is nearly 9,000 feet high, has a milelong crater and bubbles like a witch’s caldron. Arenal has a perfect cone shape and was spewing ash last month.
– Wildlife and jungle ecology: Ubiquitous and spectacular. A big treat is relatively inaccessible Tortuguero on the Caribbean coast, where giant sea turtles come ashore at night to lay their eggs. The Carara reserve is on the Pacific coast; you can tramp its trails by yourself, or take a guided tour to view hundreds of species of insect and animal life.
– Beaches and resorts: Plenty on the Pacific coast to suit most tastes, but the most popular is Manuel Antonio. Plenty of small, cheap, villa-like hotels sit on cliffs overlooking beaches. The best of the bunch are in Manuel Antonio National Park, where you can laze in the sun and hike nature trails while looking for monkeys and sloths.
That is where Costa Rica seems to be right now-a spectacularly beautiful little country that works, on the cusp of being discovered by mass tourism and the franchise industry. Check it out before they fix the roads and the franchises invade in force.
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Costa Rican law requires that hotels and some public buildings be handicapped-accessible. Buses, however, are not equipped for disabled passengers. For more information, contact the Costa Rican National Tourist Bureau in San Jose, 011-506-23-84-23.
Getting there, staying there and more
Getting there: American and United Airlines fly from Miami to San Jose. Mexicana Airlines and the Costa Rican airline, Lacsa, fly directly from New York. Total air and connection time, Chicago to San Jose, is 7 to 9 hours. Round trip air fare is about $500.
Where to stay: There are very few American chain hotels in Costa Rica (a Holiday Inn and Sheraton are in San Jose), but the country is filled with a range of hostelries, from upscale villa types to economical cabins. Most are small and reasonably priced (from $40-$70 double). Many don’t have air conditioning (it’s not usually needed, except sometimes on the Caribbean coast), phones or TVs, and some lack hot water. In most cases, you definitely won’t be roughing it, but if cool air and hot showers are important to you, call ahead to find out what your hotel offers.
Currency: The colon. There are about 144 to the dollar, but American currency is accepted in much of the country.
Health tips: No shots are needed. But if you’re going to trek through the jungle, bring hiking boots, long pants and plenty of bug repellent. Even though Costa Rica is a clean country with few health problems, there still is a chance that you’ll come down with that tourist scourge, diarrhea.
More information: Costa Rican National Tourist Bureau, Box 777-1000, San Jose, Costa Rica. In the U.S. call 800-327-7033.