During the Roaring `20s and the Depression `30s, Hollywood was in its heyday and ”Puttin` on the Ritz” meant covering yourself with glitz. Early movie idols set the pace for glamour dressing that now is making a comeback in the `80s.
But if you have your heart set on rushing out to get a genuine `20s silk beaded dress in good condition, be prepared to spend some time hunting and a couple-hundred dollars, according to Jack Garber of Studio V, 627 N. Dearborn St. (440-1937).
”And don`t expect to go out and boogie in it either,” he said. ”You could wear it to pose in, but you shouldn`t sit in it. Most of the beaded dresses were made of silk, which has a lifetime of about 50 years. So you just don`t find many `20s silk dresses, especially in perfect condition.”
The `30s brought lower hems from the carefree `20s, which liberated women from things like girdles, brassieres and pinched waists because they needed clothes they could be comfortable in when they joined the work force late in World War I.
Because of the fragile nature of most women`s vintage clothing pieces, Garber suggests finding a dress in any condition that you really like and that fits you well. Then have a seamstress make a muslin pattern so you can make several copies. (Vintage fabrics are sold in some shops.)
Men`s `30s suits are easier to find because they were made of more durable fabrics such as wool and linen and average about $50 to $200. The 1920s suits are much harder to find and more expensive because many were worn out during the Depression. Both single and double-breasted suits were popular, with the `20s leaning toward bulky jackets, rounded but peaked lapels and pinched waists; the `30s featured higher waists and jackets with big shoulders to emphasize the massiveness of the upper torso.
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”As we got closer to the war years, the idea was to look more like muscle men because we knew we were going off to fight,” Garber said.
Here are some other vintage clothing stores (call ahead for hours):
Chiffonnier, 980 S. Michigan Ave., 939-9076; Clark Street Waltz, 2360 N. Lincoln Ave., 472-5559; Consuelo`s, 3931 N. Ashland Ave., 935-7943; Gloria, 1007 W. Webster Ave., 327-9665; Kismet, 2934 N. Lincoln Ave., 528-4497; Silver Moon, 3337 N. Halsted St., 883-0222.