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Mari Katsumura is hardly a new face in Chicago’s dining scene, earning a reputation as a first-rate pastry chef at several restaurants. At Yugen, however, Katsumura flexes her savory muscles to create spectacular (albeit expensive) 5- and 10-course tasting menus, in a gorgeous dining room with impeccable service. In front is Kaisho, a no-reservations room offering an assortment of small plates, nearly all of them less than $20 — a low-threshold way of tasting Katsumura’s cooking. Earning a Michelin star in its first year is impressive as well. Read Phil Vettel’s full review of Yugen.

Restaurant details

Tribune rating: ? ? ? | Address: 652 W. Randolph St. | Phone: 312-265-1008 | Website: yugenchicago.com | Open: Dinner Tuesday to Saturday | Prices: Multi-course menu, $205 | Reservations: Available here (no reservations for Kaisho)

Ratings key: ? ? ? ? outstanding; ? ? ? excellent; ? ? very good; ? good; no stars: unsatisfactory. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.

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