David Hammond – Page 7

19th-century Viennese chef Franz Sacher would be pleased, I think, by the version of his eponymous chocolate cake served at Café Selmarie in Lincoln Square. First, the top of each slice of Sacher torte is decorated with his name, elegantly written in chocolate script. Second, the cake is a real looker: Layers of chocolate cake are mortared with raspberry preserve and chocolate buttercream; the whole thing is then frosted with more buttercream and wrapped in a smooth sheet of bittersweet chocolate — firm enough to be eaten on its own, if you like, with a fork. Third, every bite is delicious. The devil's food cake is firm and pleasant, while the raspberry offers a deep berry counterpoint to all the chocolate. $4.20. 4729 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-989-5595, <a href="http://cafeselmarie.com/" target="_blank">www.cafeselmarie.com</a>. — Bill Daley

Drink This: A cocktail for James Bond fanatics at The California Clipper

June 5, 2018 at 4:11 p.m.

Right now, somewhere, some guy suavely orders a Vesper, imagining himself to be James Bond. In "Casino Royale," while at cards, 007 reveals the recipe: "three measures of Gordon's, one...

Six wild Burgundian snails are the star of the wood-grilled escargot ($12) at Le Sud. The Roscoe Village restaurant's version of this dish is not hiding in a pool of garlic butter or served in a scalding hot dish. Presented on a skewer, the mollusks are brushed with olive oil infused with herbs de provence before they're grilled, absorbing a delicate smoky flavor that lingers in your mouth. Tender and buttery, the snails are served with a few generous pats of herb butter that melt, adding another layer of fragrance and lusciousness. A side of green salad dressed with olive oil, lemon and salt provides a bright contrast to the skewer and a hearty country bread serves as a foundation for assembling a makeshift toast point. The portion is small, so make your dining companions order their own. $12. 2301 W. Roscoe St., 773-857-1985, <a href="https://lesudchicago.com/">lesudchicago.com</a> — Grace Wong

Eat This: Timpano, a fortress of dough hiding meat, cheese and pasta — Tuesdays only at Coda di Volpe

May 2, 2019 at 12:50 p.m.

"One of the great food movies," Roger Ebert once called the 1996 film "Big Night," recalling the moment the chef slices open a timpano on-screen and "the audience sighs with...

Kusanya Cafe is the kind of place where you can get a cup of coffee, check out the community board, print a school paper or simply jump on the internet. You'll see people huddled together over papers strewn across the wood tables or someone walking in simply to say hello to the small staff. Because the nonprofit cafe roasts its own coffee on-site in small batches, don't hesitate to order that lavender iced latte ($3.49) or a plain cup of coffee. The breakfast and lunch menu is lush with references to famous musicians, like the Lupe Tabasco breakfast sandwich ($2.29). It features a thin egg patty, with melted cheese and Sriracha on ciabatta, and you can add sausage, spinach and tomato for an extra charge. The cozy and brightly lit environment is exactly where you want to catch up on some work or meet up with friends. 825 W. 69th St., 773-675-4758, <a href="http://www.kusanyacafe.org/">kusanyacafe.org</a> — Grace Wong

Drink This: Kinslahger’s Chicago Common lager as solid as its namesake

July 2, 2019 at 3:59 p.m.

At Kinslahger Brewing Co., Chicago Common is a comfortable lager, not mind-blowingly nuanced, yet undeniably good, solid as its namesake, the chestnut red-colored Chicago Common brick. "When I was brewing...

Eat This: Cap’n Crunch outside the cereal bowl — on French toast

July 2, 2019 at 3:59 p.m.

Bread, egg wash, pan fry, boom: French toast — OK at best, frequently meh. Thankfully, French toast gets a much-needed makeover at Oyster Bah, which bumps up the interest quotient...

Amaro takes walk on spicy side with 7 chiles added

July 2, 2019 at 3:59 p.m.

The cocktail renaissance shows no signs of letting up. Restaurants and bars are driven to serve more than just old standbys — like Manhattans and martinis — and those who...

Tasting pulque, the fermented agave drink of Mexico

June 6, 2018 at 5:29 a.m.

At Pulqueria Chicago, they serve a popular Mexican drink called pulque, a centuries-old beverage that chef and TV food star Anthony Bourdain has called "man juice" and "Mexican Viagra." Like...

Drink This: Smoked Chinese tea makes compelling cocktail at Imperial Lamian

June 6, 2018 at 8:47 a.m.

In the U.S., bitter too often seems an unwanted flavor. We all have the friends or relatives who wrinkle their noses after eating an olive or sipping strong coffee. Bring...

Korean pork soup comforts with plenty of spice and pork richness

May 2, 2019 at 1:07 p.m.

Ask Koreans about gamjatang, and they may get a little emotional as they think back to their grandmother's version of this pork bone and potato soup. Ask non-Koreans about gamjatang,...

Drink This: Kedvale cocktail achieves what too often is missing: Balance

June 6, 2018 at 10:45 a.m.

I'm still feeling the aftermath of the holidays, when cocktails seem to swing toward the sweeter end of the spectrum, featuring fruit syrups, chocolate, peppermint and other candy flavors. Ugh....

Eat This: Braised pork and pancakes are the new fried chicken and waffles

May 2, 2019 at 12:47 p.m.

Fried chicken and waffles make a beautiful pairing, though one that may have remained undiscovered if it weren't for Wells Supper Club in New York. The Harlem restaurant is widely...

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