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Bread, egg wash, pan fry, boom: French toast — OK at best, frequently meh.

Thankfully, French toast gets a much-needed makeover at Oyster Bah, which bumps up the interest quotient by layering in orange custard that adds tartness to balance sweetness, and smooth creaminess to play against crisp.

Overall crispness is enhanced by coating challah bread with Cap’n Crunch. “This was my favorite cereal growing up,” confesses says Oyster Bah chef Pete Balodimas. “I made this French toast at home for my family, and it worked so well, we incorporated it onto our brunch menu.”

Syrup brings it all together. “We take pure Vermont maple syrup and blueberries, then slowly heat until the berries begin to pop, which flavors the maple syrup,” says Balodimas. “While the syrup simmers, butter is emulsified in, creating a sauce as opposed to just melted butter.”

Turns out, French toast can be fantastic. Oyster Bah proves that.

1962 N. Halsted St., 773-248-3000, www.oysterbah.com

David Hammond is a freelance writer.

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