When I was first hired to write for the food pages of The South Bend Tribune and The Vidette-Messenger in Valparaiso (the latter becoming my full-time features department position in 1993), I was woefully undereducated about the world of wine.
As a recent 1992 graduate of Valparaiso University, and someone who didn’t hit age 21 until my senior year, my wine experience was limited. Affordability was key, therefore the newly launched wine coolers and Boone’s Farm Strawberry Hill (booth produced by Gallo Wines), as well as my Uncle Swede’s homemade grape and also dandelion cellar wines, and of course, the sweet concord grape “family dinner wine” in the familiar glass decanters of Mogen David (first launched back in 1933) were the big five on my novice sommelier list.
In November 1992, Chuck Small, my assigning features editor at the South Bend Tribune, opened the door to a new world of wines when he assigned me to attend and cover a wine pairing dinner in Union Pier, Michigan, hosted by the American Wine Society and presented at Patty Panozzo’s Café. My older sister Pam was my guest and driver as we sampled wines from St. Julian, Madron Lake Hills, Lemon Creek and Tabor Hill wineries from southwest Michigan.
Now 35 years later, I’m still learning and loving the wonderful world of wines.
I’ve often lamented that my younger second cousin, Jason Hisaw, who lives in Dallas, Texas, and his friend and fellow famed sommelier Alpana Singh (the longtime host of PBS table staple “Check, Please!), could have certainly helped me in the area of wine tasting and appreciation during these past two decades of cookbooks and food writing.
Other than my down-the-road sipping favorite, Anderson’s Orchard and Winery in Valparaiso (with a rhubarb table wine that to this day is unmatched), my winery for much of my “learning experience” has always been Tabor Hill, which is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year. As a newspaper columnist, I’m of course always drawn to famed name connections, and Tabor Hill has a history of boasting moments.
President Gerald Ford, a Michigander, and first lady Betty served Tabor Hill Winery’s Vidal Blanc (erroneously printed on the official menu as “Trebbiano 1971”) at a Nov. 12, 1974, White House state dinner honoring Austrian Chancellor Bruno Kreisky. This marked the first time a Michigan wine was served at a presidential state dinner.
And even though famously fussy first lady Nancy Reagan and President Ronald Reagan were partial to only serving California wines at White House dinners during their two terms, the couple included Tabor Hill’s semi-sweet Classic Demi-Sec during their dining tenure in Washington, D.C.
Last month while in Michigan, I chatted with winery patriarch Rick Moersch, age 75, and his Tabor Hill Winery CEO, son Matt Moersch, 47, along with their newest team member, James Beard-nominated Chef Justin Carlisle.
From white to red, sweet to dry, sparkling to still, Tabor Hill sits on 60 acres in Buchanan, Michigan, and produces more than 30 varieties, ranking it as the fourth largest winery operation in Michigan. The family describes their timeline as “a full circle homecoming,” since founder Rick Moersch and the Moersch Hospitality Group acquired Tabor Hill in 2017. Rick, originally a high school chemistry teacher and founder of rival Round Barn Winery, got his start working the Tabor Hill wine labs in 1980 before being named head winemaker by 1982.
Both father and son, as well as the winery’s chief winemaker, Sage Sitarz, share the same concerns that Michigan’s changing climate is forcing the winery to also transition to ideal grape varieties for growing conditions. Tabor Hill Winery holds the distinction of being the first winery in Michigan to plant Riesling varietal grapes to expand wine categories, including production of their bottled Grand Mark tribute to sparkling champagnes.
In 1984, Tabor Hill Winery purchased the Detroit and Hartford, Michigan-headquartered Bronte Champagne & Wine Company, started in 1933, still hailed as the pouring pioneers who launched the “Cold Duck” line of chilled bottled sparkling wine splashed with red wine.
In 1997, the Moersch family purchased and relocated an Amish round barn from the cornfields of Indiana and rebuilt the structure, which eventually was unveiled as Round Barn Winery.
Chef Carlisle has created a new menu for the Tabor Hill Winery Restaurant to celebrate this special anniversary season, and he said he is continuing the tradition of his predecessor to incorporate local ingredients from the neighboring farms along the Southwest Michigan area, including Frillman Farms in Berrien Springs and Falak Farms in Baroda.
With his inventive flair and refined palate, some of his favorite showcase courses include homemade “gaufrettes” (French for waffle style potato chips) served with creamy onion dip topped with smoked trout roe (caviar); diced roasted, pickled and chilled red sugar beets tossed with blueberries and blackberries and accented with a horseradish cream sauce; a pork loin entrée served on a bed of cabbage, beans and onions; and a succulent charred 35-day aged New York strip served with a rich béarnaise sauce.
For the sweet finale list, the restaurant’s pastry chef Bo Durham has his specialty carrot cake, as well as a “candy bar” creation of pretzel, peanut butter and caramelized white chocolate topped with a ganache and smoked salt. Chef Bo’s signature Michigan dessert is his “million-dollar cookie” created with dark chocolate, toasted walnuts, dried Michigan cherries, brown butter, brewer’s malt and both rye and oat flours.
More history and menu details are found at www.taborhill.com.
More Top Picks Best Meat Grinders For Home Use
More than 15 years ago, I interviewed the Tabor Hill Winery Restaurant’s previous executive chef John Paul Verhage, and we found we both share the same flavor passion for ramps, the heavy-flavored wild onions which grow all about our farm. Chef Verhage grew up in the Kalamazoo area and knew that ramps could be found growing in our region for those willing to forage, and so he was frustrated that he had to pay $12 a pound (at that time) from his supplier.
One of his favorite recipes he shared with me is for his easy hummus spread incorporating ramps to utilize their intense, garlic-like flavor, served with flat crackers or pita bread and a fantastic flavor contrast with a favorite chilled white wine.
Columnist Philip Potempa has published four cookbooks and is a weekly radio host at WJOB 1230 AM. He can be reached at [email protected] or mail your questions: From the Farm, PO Box 68, San Pierre, Ind. 46374.
Ramp Hummus
Makes 6 servings
Ingredients
1 can (16-ounce) of chickpeas or garbanzo beans, liquid reserved
1/4 cup liquid from can of chickpeas
3-5 tablespoons lemon juice (as desired for taste)
1 1/2 tablespoons tahini (sold in international aisle of grocery stores)
1 cup caramelized ramp bulbs (sautéed until dark brown)
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
Directions
1. Drain chickpeas and set aside liquid from can.
2. Combine remaining ingredients in blender or food processor and add 1/4 cup of liquid from chickpeas.
3. Blend for 3-5 minutes on low until thoroughly mixed and smooth. Adjust lemon juice flavor as needed.
4. Place in serving bowl and add a small amount (1-2 tablespoons) drizzle garnish of olive oil and more diced fresh ramps for garnish.
5. Serve with crackers or pita.