In what might be the most Chicago announcement ever on an April 1 — hint, hint — three of the city’s most iconic food and drink brands said Friday they would combine forces.
J.P. Graziano, The Wieners Circle and Malört claim to be merging to form a single entity, J.P. Wienerlört. And boy, are we fools for the notion of an insult-slinging Italian deli-slash-hot dog stand with wince-inducing liqueur paired with every giardiniera-spiked hot dog.
“Our companies don’t seem like they have much in common,” said Stephanie Warsen, director of marketing at CH Distillery and Jeppson’s Malört. “But when people think of Chicago, we’re authentic Chicago brands that people love. We have pride and loyalty to our city and the people who live here.”
It’s true the three encompass some of the most raved-about institutions in the city. They rank among our top essential Chicago food and drink, and many consider them a rite of passage for newcomers and tourists.
J.P. Graziano has developed something of a cult following among die-hard fans of its excellent Italian subs. The Wieners Circle is, as my fellow Tribune food critic Louisa Chu noted in her December review
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, “Chicago’s most notorious hot dog stand.” And while the tongue lashing that is a shot of Malört is rarely craved by any Chicagoan, we nurture a begrudging fondness for it all the same.So, what culinary treasures would such a union yield? Italian subs filled with a wormwood-infused giardiniera? Cheese fries with a bitter aftertaste? Malört mayonnaise on your Mr. G? The possibilities are endless.
Of the totally-not-a-prank merger, “I am the one who is in awe,” says Jim Graziano, the fourth-generation owner of J.P. Graziano in the West Loop, who has definitely never lied to me personally. “It’s really cool.”
They’ve rolled out a logo to celebrate this historic, if farcical, union, and a slogan to boot: “The Realist Chicago,” a spinoff of J.P. Graziano’s “Taste Real Chicago.” You can even check it out on the website jpwienerlort.com.
And while the merger may not be ironclad — or real — the three brands will unite for an event April 8 at The Wieners Circle (2622 N. Clark St. Taking place during the Chicago Cubs’ opening weekend, the night will feature a Malört bloody mary, rimmed with giardiniera seasoning, poppy seeds and mustard — and topped with a mini version of those excellent char dogs.
Also look out for J.P. Wienerlört shirts and beer koozies.
Oh, and happy April Fools’ Day, to those celebrating.
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