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Gene Kato’s excellent Sumi Robata Bar might have been ahead of his time, but luckily for Chicago, when Sumi closed, Kato wound up in Fulton Market, maintaining and even elevating Momotaro’s status as the most complete Japanese restaurant in the city. Excellent sushi and hot dishes continue to delight, and Kato’s superb robata work has been incorporated into the menu as well. Do not overlook the downstairs Izakaya, an intimate and dark space with menu delights of its own. Read Phil Vettel’s full review of Momotaro here.

Restaurant details

Tribune rating: ? ? ? | Address: 820 W. Lake St. | Phone: 312-733-4818 | Website: momotarochicago.com

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| Open: Dinner Monday-Sunday | Prices: Sushi pieces $6 to $12, main courses $16-$75 | Reservations: Available here

Ratings key: ? ? ? ? outstanding; ? ? ? excellent; ? ? very good; ? good; no stars: unsatisfactory. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.

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