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(New) A simultaneous salute to Samuel Clemens and to husband-wife team Tim and Rebekah Graham, Twain takes its culinary inspiration from mid-century women’s club cookbooks, with Tim Graham’s modern interpretations. Thus there’s Ants on a Log, only made with a duck-liver-and-peanut mousse and bourbon-soaked cherries. Entrees shine brighter than the starters (don’t miss the Pigs in a Blanquette), matched to Rebekah Graham’s meticulously assembled (and bargain-priced) wine list.

MORE: Phil Vettel’s full review of Twain.

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Tribune rating: ? ? Address: 2445 N. Milwaukee Ave. Phone: 773-697-8463 Website: twainchicago.com Open: Dinner Tuesday to Sunday, brunch Sunday Prices: Entrees $15-$26 Noise: Conversation-friendly

Ratings key: ? ? ? ? outstanding; ? ? ? excellent; ? ? very good; ? good; no stars: unsatisfactory. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.

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