(New) Chef Matt Kerney showed considerable courage when he made the leap from Longman & Eagle to the no-room-for-error realm of $100-plus, nine- and 12-course tasting menus (including all-vegan tastings). Kerney has a flair for turning simple ingredients into elevated compositions, and his signature move is an ever-changing “rice and beans” plate that’s an homage to the ingredients that feed most of the world. The 20-seat dining room is handsome and intimate, decorated by rock ‘n’ roll photography that’s a nod to the neighborhood’s many music venues.
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MORE: Phil Vettel’s full review of Brass Heart.
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Tribune rating: ? ? ? Address: 4662 N. Broadway Phone: 773-564-9680 Website: brassheartrestaurant.com Open: Dinner Tuesday to Saturday Prices: 9-course menu $105-$145; 12-course $130-$145 Noise: Conversation-friendly
Ratings key: ? ? ? ? outstanding; ? ? ? excellent; ? ? very good; ? good; no stars: unsatisfactory. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
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