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(New) Les Nomades opened under original owner Jovan Trbojevic as a private club, whose rules of decorum — strictly enforced — ensured a refined and quiet evening. Now open to the public and owned by Mary Beth Liccioni, Les Nomades remains — even minus the old rules — an oasis of gentility. Chef Roland Liccioni’s classic French cooking will throw in a surprise now and again (a gentle nudge of Sriracha in a caviar dish), but his dishes are as elegant as his surroundings.

MORE: See Phil Vettel’s full review of Les Nomades.

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Tribune rating: ? ? ? ? Address: 222 E. Ontario St. Phone: 312-649-9010 Website: lesnomades.net Open: Dinner Tuesday to Saturday Prices: Four-course dinner $130; five-course $145 Noise: Hushed

Ratings key: ? ? ? ? outstanding; ? ? ? excellent; ? ? very good; ? good; no stars: unsatisfactory. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.

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