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(Down from 21) Much as I love Sepia, which has been an outstanding restaurant for more than 10 years, I’m smitten with its not-quite-2-year-old-sibling which shares chefs (chef/partner Andrew Zimmerman, pastry chef Sarah Mispagel), wine director (Jennifer Wagoner) and, of course, owner Emmanuel Nony. The menu explores Zimmerman’s love of international street food in an array of small to medium plates, ping-ponging from border to border. The wide-open and sometimes raucous dining room has a contagious sense of fun and wonder.

MORE: Phil Vettel’s full review of Proxi.

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Tribune rating: ? ? Address: 565 W. Randolph St. Phone: 312-466-1950 Website: www.proxichicago.com Open: Dinner Monday to Saturday Prices: Medium-to-large plates $14-$30 Reservations: Strongly recommended Noise: Conversation-challenged

Ratings key: ? ? ? ? outstanding; ? ? ? excellent; ? ? very good; ? good; no stars: unsatisfactory. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.

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