(New) Founding chef Erling Wu-Bower is gone (now helming the impressive Pacific Standard Time, also a Phil’s 50), but Bill Montagne has proven to be an excellent replacement, adding more budget-friendly items to the menu while still leaving room for signatures such as salt-baked whole fish. Leigh Omilinsky’s desserts are superb, as usual.
MORE: Phil Vettel’s full review of Nico Osteria.
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Tribune rating: ? ? ? Address: 1015 N. Rush St. Phone: 312-994-7100 Website: www.nicoosteria.com Open: Lunch and dinner daily, breakfast Monday to Friday, brunch Saturday and Sunday Prices: Large plates $17-$42 Reservations: Strongly recommended Noise: Conversation-challenged Other: Valet parking
Ratings key: ? ? ? ? outstanding; ? ? ? excellent; ? ? very good; ? good; no stars: unsatisfactory. The reviewer makes every effort to remain anonymous. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
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