On a beautiful but chilly May Monday evening, the flames in the outdoor heaters are ablaze on the patio at Viaggio in Highland Park. Inside, Lori Slavin, wife of co-owner Larry, works the room, greeting diners and taking the occasional order. “Something I haven’t done in 40 years,” she jokes.
Opened on May 1, Viaggio is the sister restaurant to the original location on Madison Avenue blocks from the United Center. It occupies Merlo’s former space on Roger Williams Avenue. Slavin, a trader for 25 years, befriended Viaggio’s owner, and upon his retirement almost six years ago, bought the place.
Lori was nonplussed at his announcement of his new career. Previously, he had surprised her with the news that with a group that included former Chicago Blackhawks player Denis Savard and retired jockey Rene Douglas he had bought a racehorse (his “horse of a lifetime,” Private Zone, raced from 2012-16). So, she recalled, when he said he was going to become a restaurateur, she said, “Sure, why not?”
Now, along with the menu, he is bringing Viaggio’s city vibe to the suburbs. “A lot of our customers on Madison come from this area,” Slavin noted. “We wanted to bring the rustic personality of the restaurant here — friendly, family-oriented, great food.”
Slavin, who grew up in Skokie, is familiar with “here.” He was a frequent patron at the now-shuttered Ravinia BBQ & Grill, he said.
He anticipates the opening of the Ravinia Festival’s summer season. “We have experience handling large crowds at one time because of (our proximity to) the United Center,” he said.
The crowds, thus far, have been a pleasant surprise, he noted. “We thought it would be a softer opening,” he said, “but the neighborhood was waiting for us.” He is enjoying the honeymoon period in which the staff, including general manager Frank Colainni, and manager Todd Cohen, are getting to know their customers. In just a week, he said, he has noticed repeat patrons.
Mike McEntee and his wife Nancy, former regulars at Merlo’s, are among them. This night is their second visit. “We live down the block,” McEntee said. “It’s nice to have new place you can walk to. Everybody is very friendly and helpful and the food is incredible.”
Philosophy: Viaggio’s credo is spelled out on a plaque that hangs on the exposed brick wall: “It’s all about family and good food.” “We are a family-friendly neighborhood restaurant,” Lori offered and made the inevitable ‘Cheers’ reference. “We will be where everybody knows your name.”
Decor: Don’t you just love that new restaurant smell? The sweet fragrance of the newly-redone wooden floors blends with the aromas of the entrees. The dining room has retained Merlo’s layout. It seats just over 70. The dark wood bar area that occupies the middle of the room can accommodate 12. The patio seats 40. Framed illustrations of the Italian countryside grace the freshly painted creamed-color wall.
On the menu: Early favorite appetizers include the meatball salad and stacked eggplant. The brick chicken is also a bestseller, along with “classic Italian dishes” such as penne Bolognese. Chicken and veal entrees include Milanese, parmesan, picante and vesuvio incarnations. Fish dishes include salmon oreganato and shrimp scampi. The menu also includes a filet mignon.
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Pricing: Appetizers range from $9 (fresh tomato bruschetta) to $16 (the meatball salad). Pasta dishes start at $14 (spaghetti marinara) and top out at $24 (linguini clams). Chicken dishes are $22 and veal entrees are $27. The brick chicken is $29 ad the salmon oreganato is $25. Small chopped or Caesar salads are $8. The caprese salad is $12. Sides range from $6 (garlic mashed potatoes) to $9 (sauteed wild mushrooms). Desserts are $6 (sorbet) to $10 (chocolate cake).
Logistics: Viaggio is located at 581 Roger Williams Ave., Highland Park. Hours are 4-9 p.m. Sundays; 4-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; and 4-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Call 847-926-3441 or go to viaggiohighlandpark.com.
Donald Liebenson is a freelance reporter for the News-Sun.