Fried pizza at Fiamme

What we’re talking about when we talk about pizza is, really, the crust. Toppings matter, of course, but the baseline for critiquing pizza is on the merits of the dough and the cooking method. If you don’t have a good crust, you don’t have a good pizza, no matter what’s on top. Fiamme adheres to the strict guidelines of Neapolitan crusts: double-zero flour, an 800-degree brick oven that produces blistering pies in less than 2 minutes. But I’m drawn to the restaurant because of a seldom-seen variant called montanara, or pizze fritte, or, in more alluring terms, fried pizza ($14-$16). Pizza dough is flash-fried for 45 seconds before being finished in the oven for 75 seconds. That quick fry puffs up the interior, and gives the pizza a crisp chew. It also adds a richness that reminds me of a buttery breadstick. Fried pizza: It’s a wholly Italian concept that seems more wholly American.

19 N. Washington St., Naperville, 630-470-9441, www.fiammepizza.com

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