Fried pickles at Barn & Company

I am a fried-pickle aficionado, and I’ve spent probably too much time pondering the value of pickle coins vs. spears, sweet vs. dill, cornmeal batter vs. flour. But Gary Wiviott, pitmaster at Barn & Company in Lincoln Park, doesn’t waffle on any of that. After methodically experimenting with different pickles and preparations, he has found the perfect formula, served for $8 with a jalapeno-ranch dipping sauce. First, he opts for pickle spears over coins because they’re easier to dip and have more bite. “We use new pickles for crunch,” he adds. A pickle of medium girth ensures even cooking; too small and the interior will be mushy before the breading crisps. He soaks the kosher dill spears in buttermilk, then coats them with beer batter and panko crumbs before frying. These are my favorite fried pickles in Chicago right now: a tongue-tantalizing balance of moisture and crunch, with tang and creaminess in every bite. Wiviott’s chef’s jacket reads “Barbecue Life Coach,” but perhaps it should brag about his pickle life skills too.

950 W. Wrightwood Ave, 773-832-4000, www.barnandcompany.com

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