Essential Monsters at The Drifter

Inside The Drifter, a time capsule of early 20th-century Chicago awaits, with an impressive collection of circus memorabilia, a stage for evening cabaret shows and a Prohibition-era door accessed via phone booth. Cocktail choices are printed on decks of vintage tarot cards, many of which cycle in and out of the deck daily, said beverage director Liz Pearce. One drink in the rotation — though available by request when it’s not on the menu — is Essential Monsters ($12). This cocktail pulls off a tricky combination with aplomb: Jeppson’s Malort, Combier Pamplemousse, Giffard Vanille de Madagascar and a cleansing dash of lemon, with each ingredient both complementing and ameliorating the flavor of the next. Pearce said she created the drink because she loves Malort, a local liqueur with a polarizing bitter flavor, and enjoys changing people’s perceptions of it and similarly “difficult ingredients” by balancing them in a cocktail. “It may not be for everyone,” Pearce said, “but those that get it, love it.”

676 N. Orleans St., 312-631-3887, www.thedrifterchicago.com

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