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Horchata, the Mexican rice drink, comes four ways at Antique Taco: plain on ice, mixed with deliciously strong coffee, as a cocktail with rum in a cinnamon sugar-rimmed glass or as a shake blended with vanilla ice cream, cinnamon sugar and a bit of banana, and topped with a puff of whipped cream.

On a visit to the taqueria’s Bridgeport location, I tried all three of the nonspiked horchatas, and declared the shake ($5) winner and champion.

The first thing you’ll notice is the texture, a nice thickness that makes pulling it up through the straw something of a delicious chore. The flavor is mild — a pleasant mix of cinnamon, vanilla and the low-key hum of banana. I loved the whipped cream on top, too, with its sprinkling of cinnamon sugar.

There are several ways to make horchata; at Antique Taco, chef Rick Ortiz toasts the rice before blending it. And why banana?

“I like banana in my milkshakes,” Ortiz says. “It adds a little bit of flavor, and the texture helps thicken it a bit.”

Horchata milkshakes are available at all three Antique Taco locations: Wicker Park, Bridgeport and the Loop (inside Revival Food Hall).

Antique Taco, multiple locations, www.antiquetaco.com

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Twitter @billdaley

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