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I lump deep-fried food into two general categories: The TGI Fridays-mozzarella-stick variety, where the object of frying is so well-swaddled in batter that only the shape hints at what’s inside; and the delicate fry, where the crunchy coating is so paper-thin it’s translucent. A good tempura batter is the latter, and you’ll find a very good tempura batter at Bad Hunter in the West Loop.

There, chefs fry thinly sliced lemons — one of my favorite magic tricks, as it mellows their sour punch — and meaty chunks of Carolina sweet potato to make an appetizer-size plate ($15) so addictive it appears on both the lunch and dinner menus. A fragrant, salty, slightly funky fish-sauce caramel comes in a ramekin on the side for dipping.

Pair it with a bottle of the Red Tail Ridge pet nat, a lightly bubbly wine from the Finger Lakes region in New York, and go home happy.

Bad Hunter, 802 W. Randolph St., 312-265-1745, www.badhunter.com

[email protected]
Twitter @marissa_conrad

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