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The beer: Maibock, Capital Brewery

What it is: Ah spring, when a young man’s fancy — a woman’s fancy, too — lightly turns to thoughts of beer. In a hop-crazed world, traditional spring seasonal beers are about as uncool as beer gets, and accordingly, we see fewer and fewer examples of the most classic spring style of them all: maibock, a strong, malty German lager. But leave it to a veteran Wisconsin brewery — Capital Brewery, located just outside Madison — to cling to the underappreciated tradition.

In the can: From the first sniff, there’s no mistaking what’s going on within Maibock: Virtually no hop character gets in the way of this malty golden-copper brew. Maibock is wonderfully thick on the palate with a long ride of caramel richness, with a wisp of butterscotch in there too. The finish is sweet and grainy, not unlike a few Grape Nuts were sneaked into your delicious malt bomb of a beer.

Alcohol: 6.2 percent

Drink it with: The smooth, rich character and long sweetness make for an ideal and versatile food beer, especially beside salty, meaty dishes.

Find it: Available in six-packs of 12-ounce cans at better beer stores. The beer isn’t flying off shelves — it’s not a stout or an IPA, after all — but supply is limited, so call first.

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Twitter @joshbnoel

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