There are a lot of cliches about food and cooking, but one that consistently gets my goat is describing something as “made with love.” It’s so unimaginative, so boring and never really describes the food item in question, so why even bother?
When it comes to saying food is “made with love,” I’m worse than the Grinch and Scrooge.
But then we turn the corner on the year, and fall gives way to Thanksgiving, which dovetails into winter and the holiday giving season. As lights start to twinkle in windows and snow starts to fall, my heart begins to thaw. This is my favorite time of the year.
And despite my rage for lazy descriptors, I’m a softy like everyone else. I do, in fact, believe that food is love, and when I’m at a loss as to what to get friends and family, I invariably turn to my kitchen. Making food as a gift is my way of pouring time, effort and care into a final product that nourishes others.
One gift that comes to mind is fudge, soft and supple little bites of chocolate. Easy to make, and even easier to jazz up, a batch of fudge comes together in no time, but makes for a thoughtful host present, or a sweet addition to any gathering.
A student at Vassar College, Emelyn Battersby Hartridge, reportedly documented the first known instance of American-style chocolate fudge in the 1880s, noting her schoolmate’s cousin’s “fudging up” a batch of French caramels. Her recipe is now part of the Vassar lore, handed down over the years because it is simple, sweet and delicious — a perfect kiss of chocolate when someone needs a quick indulgence.
For Chicago baker Tracy Falda, owner of event bakery Bake Me Off, fudge is quintessentially tied to the holiday season. “When I was younger,” she says, “my sister’s high school boyfriend’s grandmother was from the South. We’d go over together and help her make up Christmas fudge. The process is very loving. Making it today brings a lot of memories.”
If you’re a lover of chocolate, she says, fudge is the perfect combo of flavor and simplicity.
That said, the process can be tricky. “Don’t walk away, or you can burn everything,” says Falda. Instead, take your time — her recipe comes together surprisingly quickly, which is why paying attention to the process is key. “You can make it in the morning, and it’ll be ready by the afternoon.”
Though simple, this fudge is easily played with — a blank, chocolaty canvas for any manner of treats. Pretzels and peppermint are classic toppings, while a sprinkling of candied ginger or citrus can add a sophisticated, colorful element to a batch. Falda enjoys studding hers with bits of crispy rice treats, for a balance of crunch and smooth chocolate. A full batch, wrapped up or served on a platter, makes for a lovely gift or casual post-caroling treat.
The tops of toppings
Some of our favorite things to top off a batch of fudge:
Crushed peppermint candies
Pretzel pieces
Chopped nuts
Crispy rice treats
Melted butterscotch
Peanut butter
Candy bars, broken up
Toffee pieces
Candied ginger, chopped in small pieces
Butterscotch chips
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Basic fudge
Prep: 20 minutes, plus chilling time
Cook: 8 minutes
Makes: 24 pieces
Recipe from Tracy Falda of Bake Me Off in Chicago. She suggests using a 24-cavity nonstick silicone baking mold. Alternately, use a 9-by-9-inch baking pan.
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
3/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon salted butter
7 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 1/2 ounces milk chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon vanilla
Toppings of your choice
1 In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine cream, sugar and butter; cook until sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Add chocolates and vanilla; stir until smooth, 1 minute.
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2 Remove from heat, and drop fudge with a spoon into cavities of a nonstick silicone baking mold or spread in a 9-by-9-inch baking pan (coated with cooking spray). Tap mold until fudge is smooth; add your choice of toppings, if using.
3 Chill in the fridge until set, about 2 hours. Pop each square out of the mold and serve on your favorite decorative platter (or cut into 1-inch squares).
Vassar fudge
Prep: 45 minutes
Cook: 20 minutes
Makes: about 1 pound, 35 pieces
Recipe by Emelyn Battersby Hartridge, courtesy Vassar College archives. This simple fudge is soft and crumbly, and can easily be scaled up for larger batches.
2 cups sugar
1 cup whipping cream
2 squares (2 ounces) unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon butter
Toppings of your choice
1 Combine sugar, cream and chocolate in a medium saucepan. (You’ll need a saucepan large enough to avoid spills as the mixture cooks.) Cook over moderate heat, stirring only until sugar and chocolate have melted. Continue cooking until mixture reaches 238 degrees on a candy thermometer or until a few drops tested in cold water form a soft ball, 15 to 20 minutes.
2 Remove from heat, add butter and cool slightly. Beat until fudge begins to harden; transfer to a buttered 5-by-7-inch baking pan. Add toppings, if using. Cut into 1-inch squares before the fudge is absolutely firm.
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