Nieto’s is located in north Highland Park (not, as commonly perceived, in Highwood) in the space that Carlos’ occupied for just over three decades.
That tony fine-dining establishment, ranked No. 1 multiple times in the Chicago Zagat guide, was the jewel in the crown for Carlos Nieto and his wife, Debbie, who also operate Cafe Central in Highland Park, which is run by their son, Adam; The Happ Inn Bar & Grill in Northfield; and the Ravinia Festival’s Freehling Room.
“The 1980s spoiled us,” Nieto said. “We would have 100 people a night.” But then came the economic collapse and dwindling business. Carlos’ closed in 2011.
Think of Nieto’s as Carlos’-casual. The configuration of the main dining room is still the same — there are three upstairs dining rooms, one that seats up to 30 and two that seat up to 10. The wood-paneled walls still lend a touch of class.
Luis Saucedo is still the head waiter, a role he served at Carlos’ from its opening. Several of the cooks and servers remain as well.
But the white tablecloths have been replaced by black tablecloths covered with white paper. Lining the walls are inviting framed black and white customer family portraits. The bar area, not utilized by customers in Carlos’ day, now includes a couple of TV screens and seats eight for drinking or dining.
“It’s a livelier environment,” Nieto said. The biggest change: the prices. Whereas a Carlos’ diner might spend on average $100, a Nieto’s customer will spend roughly $35. This encourages more family patrons. “I always wanted kids to come to the restaurant,” Nieto said.
The family friendly menu includes a Build-a-Prime Burger for $12.95. Sides ($5.95 each) include French Fries and Housemade Potato Chips.
Other comfort entrees include a “Shake n’ Bake” Prime Bone-In Pork Chop ($28.95), Grilled Skirt Steak ($29.95) and Braised Beef Short Ribs ($24.95). Lighter entrees include the Mediterranean and E.T. (Everything) salads ($18.95 each), Debbie’s Roasted Half Chicken ($17.95) and Sauteed Salmon in Bamboo Basket ($22.95).
Hot and cold starters range from Guacamole & Chips ($10.95) and Homemade Lobster Ravioli ($11.95). Some Carlos’ favorites are offered among the daily specials.
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The wide-ranging dessert menu includes Homer’s Ice Cream flavors ($6.95), a Housemade Cookie Sundae ($8), Warm Chocolate Lava Cake ($8.50) and Key Lime Pie ($8.50).
“We change the menu every three or four months to keep it fresh so people won’t see the same things over and over,” Nieto said. But some things never change. “We want people to come in and feel at home,” Nieto said. “That’s what we’ve been doing since we had Carlos’.”
Hours: Closed Tuesday. Open 5 p.m. Last reservation: 8:30 p.m., weekdays; 9:30 p.m. weekends.
Address: 429 Temple Ave., Highland Park
Contact: 847-432-0770 or visit www.nietosrestaurant.com
Donald Liebenson is a freelance writer.