Fresh herbal flavors of parsley and dill combine with tastes of the sea and the richness of chowder, together calling for wines to contrast or complement the varying notes.
The food
Quick tuna and clam pappardelle
Cook 8 ounces pappardelle (or fettuccine) in a large pot of well-salted boiling water until al dente. Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 chopped red onion. Cook until softened, 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon each fresh chopped dill and capers, and pepper to taste. Cook, 1 minute. Stir in 1 can (16 ounces) clam chowder and 1 can (6 ounces) albacore tuna, drained; cook, stirring occasionally, until hot throughout, about 5 minutes. Season to taste. Drain pasta. Toss pasta in a large bowl with the sauce. Makes: 4 servings
Recipe by Carol Mighton Haddix
The wines
Pairings by sommelier Rachael Lowe, wine director of Spiaggia and Spiaggia Cafe in Chicago, as told to Michael Austin:
NV Pierre Gimonnet Brut Blanc de Blancs, Premier Cru, Cuis, France: This Champagne is made of 100 percent chardonnay from the Cotes des Blancs. Aged in stainless steel, it is a very clean and refreshing wine, evoking aromas of green apple, pear, almond skin and a chalky minerality. It will balance the herbaceous notes of the dish, while the acidity will cut through the fleshy fish and creaminess of the chowder and pasta.
2014 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece: From a winery founded by Paris Sigalas in 1991 and dedicated to the organic production of native grape varieties, especially assyrtiko, this is a savory wine, with notes of lemon pith, lime blossom, tarragon, wet stone and a briny finish. It will pair beautifully with the clam and tuna component of the dish while mirroring the vegetal notes of the parsley and dill.
2012 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana, Etna Rosso, Sicily, Italy: This red is a blend of nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio grapes. It is elegant, focused and savory, with aromas of red currant, raspberry and red apple skin intermingled with secondary notes of dried sage, thyme, mushroom and a hint of smoke. Its lighter body will not mask the seafood flavors in the dish, while the dried herbs will balance the greens, and the acidity will cut the richness.
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