The stuffed-crust pizza at Dolce Italian is worth the trip.
Worth a trip: Startufata pizza ($21) at Dolce Italian
127 W. Huron St. 312-754-0700
Back in the sixth grade, no party was complete without stuffed-crust pizza. God forbid your mom forgot to specify your crust preference to the Pizza Hut operator. It was a novel idea at the time: cram more cheesy goodness into a doughy crust for a lactose lover’s dream. I’d forgotten all about my fascination with stuffed-crust pies until I stumbled upon a totally grown-up version while perusing Instagram. Unlike the kind that fueled grade school parties, this one was draped in speck and spicy salami and drizzled with fragrant truffle oil. The crust was pulled into a star shape and stuffed with dollops of ricotta cheese and more salami. Be still, my heart.
I found out the necessary details—what, where, how soon could I get there—and made my way to Dolce Italian in River North. The pie in question was called the Startufata, which isn’t on the Miami import’s regular menu. It’s a secret item that must be requested by name (or “that star-shaped pizza with salami”). It’s not that the pie is too decadent for the masses; it’s just that it takes longer to prepare. While a regular Dolce pizza takes a minute or two to prep, the Startufata takes three. It has to cook longer too—about five to six minutes compared with a regular pizza that cooks in two and a half minutes. “It takes time to even get [the preparation] down properly too,” chef Paolo Dorigato said. “It’s not that we keep it for special people; everyone is special. But when you have a rush, it’s hard to stop service just to make it.”
My heart dropped when the bartender told me he’d have to check if the chef could prepare it. But after a few nerve-wracking moments, he was returned with a smile and good news: The Startufata was in my immediate future.
The tough thing about Instagram food crazes is you never know what you’re going to get in real life. A professional camera, good lighting and a few filters can make anything look amazing. But when the pizza emerged from the kitchen, it was everything I’d hoped for. The dish is actually a variation of a regular menu item, the bianca-style Tartufata pizza ($18). For an additional $3, the crust is contorted into a star and stuffed with cheesy, meaty goodness.
The result is a pizza with three distinct parts: a beginning, a middle and a very happy ending. My first bite was simple but overwhelmingly delicious: chewy dough topped with mozzarella sourced from Wisconsin and ricotta and glazed with truffle oil. “We let the dough age for 72 hours,” Dorigato said. “If we can, we leave it resting in the fridge for four to five days.” On the second bite, I ripped off a hunk of speck (smoky Italian prosciutto) and spicy salami, worthy substitutes for salty pepperoni. Finally, the stuffed crust was in sight: a perfectly triangular pocket of housemade ricotta and spicy salami. At this point, the guy sitting next to me at the bar looked over with remorse. “What’d you say that was called again?” he asked.
Want to learn how to host and prepare a summer dinner party? Teach yoself here.
More Top Picks Best Offset Patio Umbrellas
Reporters visit restaurants unannounced and meals are paid for by RedEye. [email protected] | @redeyeeatdrink