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Eggplant can grow small and white and oval, like an egg. More often it sprawls big and purple and lopsided. It could be called “paisleyplant.” But it isn’t.

Now the cafeteria staple, like the college freshman, is trying on new looks and new names. Consider the midsize model crazed with slashes of cream and purple. It aims for urban street cred under the tag “graffiti eggplant.”

The squat rotund sort reaches for sophistication as “globe eggplant.” The leggy lavender one affects jet-lag as “Japanese eggplant.” The tiny speckled teardrop strives for fanciful, going by “fairy tale eggplant.”

None of which fool the seniors. Each variety is reliable, hard-working and delicious. In other words, a good egg.

Crave more Leah?

Find all your favorite stories and recipes in Leah Eskin’s memoir, “Slices of Life: A Food Writer Cooks Through Many a Conundrum.” Available wherever books are sold.

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Fairy tale eggplant

Prep: 10 minutes

Cook: 6 minutes

Makes: 2 to 4 servings

This recipe calls for fairy tale eggplant, the tiny 2- to 3-inch-long speckled cuties. If you can’t find them, substitute Japanese eggplant.

1 1/2 pounds fairy tale eggplant, halved lengthwise, stems intact

Kosher salt, to taste

Olive oil, to taste

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 teaspoon chopped rosemary leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

1 lemon wedge

1. Salt: Scatter a little salt on eggplant. Toss.

2. Toast: Measure 2 tablespoons olive oil into a small pan. Add garlic and heat over medium-low until garlic turns fragrant and tan, about 6 minutes. Pull pan off heat. Stir in rosemary. Set aside.

3. Brown: Pour fresh olive oil to a depth of 1/4 inch into two heavy skillets. Heat over medium-hot. Add eggplant, flat-side down, in batches. Cook until flat side is deeply browned, about 1 minute. Turn and cook until eggplant is tender, 1 to 2 minutes more. Drain between two layers of paper towels.

4. Dress: Arrange eggplant, flat-side up on a platter. Season with pepper. Drizzle with garlic-rosemary olive oil. Squeeze on a few drops of lemon. Enjoy at room temperature.

Provenance: Adapted from Fine Cooking.