Summer is peak season for lobster, and while New England is the birthplace of the lobster roll, we’re not out of the loop in Chicago. In honor of the classic seafood sandwich, we’ve rounded up some tasty, local variations.
“Our biggest selling sandwich roll is, by far, our lobster roll,” said Nancy Burhop of Burhop’s in Glenview and Hinsdale.
To find their prototype, Burhop and her husband, Jeff Burhop, studied lobster rolls in their birthplace — New England. They came up with their take by “visiting friends in Boston, and eating as many lobster rolls as possible — a tough job, but somebody had to do it,” Nancy Burhop said.
More Top Picks Best Color E Readers For Reading
The winner? A toasted New England-style bun split from the top (“it is not a hot dog bun!” Burhop insisted) filled with Maine lobster meat. “It’s rich, buttery with a nice firm, but not chewy, texture,” she said. “We add a little mayo and green onion.”
Chef Fructoso Sandoval with Lucky Fish Deli in Highwood flavors his lobster roll with chopped celery. “I put the recipe together myself, sampling different styles, until I knew I created a winner with the best flavor and consistency,” he said. “It’s sweet, buttery Cajun flavor with a hint of lime. The texture is tender and moist; creamy, but not too creamy.”
Sandoval also showcases lobster in tacos, quesadillas, salads and soups. But his favorite way to eat lobster is just plain grilled. “You really taste the sweet natural flavor of the lobster right after it comes off the grill,” he said.
When shopping for lobster, Sandoval said to shop for small, cold water lobsters that are dark in color. “The smaller and darker they are the more tender and sweet they taste,” he said.
Chef Choco Chavez sticks to the original lobster roll recipe first used when Davis Street Fishmarket opened 30 years ago in Evanston.
“It’s sour and sweet with a nice lemony bite to it,” Chavez said. “As lobster lovers know, this is the time of year when lobsters are the freshest and it is the best time to eat them — on a nice summer evening with a glass of Chardonnay.”
At The Cellar at The Stained Glass Bistro in Evanston Victor Hernandez makes what he considers a traditional lobster roll with modifications. He uses arugula in place of bibb or butter lettuce and exchanges the hot dog bun for a brioche bun. “The brioche bun adds a sweet, buttery flavor balanced out by the bite of the peppery arugula,” Hernandez said.
A citrus acid in a side of coleslaw helps cut through the rich lobster. “Lobster in general should have a soft texture, the coleslaw adds a nice crunch that works well with the flaky bun,” he said.
At Oceanique in Evanston, Chef/Owner Mark Grosz puts a spin on the classic lobster roll with an upmarket open-face sandwich with homemade saffron-togarashi aioli and seared foie gras. “Two of my favorite things — lobster and foie gras,” he said. Exotic ingredients like Hawaiian red sea salts and slices of watermelon radish provide additional intrigue.
For making lobster at home, Grosz recommends working with live 1-pound lobsters and boiling them in a large pot for three minutes only. “Most people overcook lobster,” he said. Remove the lobster from the pot and let it rest for five minutes. Then, remove it from the shell, slice it and keep it warm.
At Di Pescara in Northbrook, Executive Chef/Partner Mychael Bonner’s lobster roll is flavored with parsley, tarragon, celery and fresh lime.
Bonner’s favorite way to eat lobster is grilled. “The smoke adds to the flavor and texture,” he said. “Some drawn butter with garlic on the side and I am a happy camper.”
Lobster Roll
(Serves 4)
3 Tablespoons mayonnaise
1 1/2 Tablespoons celery, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
1 Tablespoon tarragon, finely chopped
1 teaspoon chives, finely chopped
Juice of half of a fresh lime
1 pound steamed lobster meat, cooled and cut into large chunks (3/4 to 1-inch size)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 top-split hot dog buns
2 Tablespoons melted butter
1 small head of bibb or butter lettuce, washed, dried and cut into julienne strips
In a medium to large bowl, combine mayonnaise, celery, fresh herbs and lime; stir to combine. Add the lobster to the bowl, and toss well. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Brush the outside of the hotdog buns with melted butter, and grill the outside to add color.
Divide the lobster mixture among the four buns, and garnish with lettuce.
Mychael Bonner, Di Pescara
Maine Lobster Sandwich
(Serves 4)
1 live whole Maine lobster (1 pound)
4 slices brioche
1 cup arugula
More Top Picks Best Samsung Phones
1 watermelon radish, sliced thin
1/2 cup fennel, sliced thin
1 teaspoon shallot, chopped fine
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
4 Tablespoons aioli (see recipe)
8 ounces foie gras, sliced 1-inch thick
Hawaiian red sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Boil lobster in water for 3 minutes. Remove and let rest in a bowl for 5 minutes. Remove meat from shell and slice thinly.
Toast brioche. Meanwhile mix arugula, watermelon radish and fennel with shallots, 2 tablespoons olive oil, lemon juice, salt and black pepper. Spread 1 tablespoon aioli onto each piece of brioche and add lobster meat, finishing with arugula salad. Sear foie gras in hot pan until golden brown on both sides. Let rest on plate. Season with salt and pepper.
Saffron-Togarashi Aioli
2 egg yolks
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon fresh orange juice
Pinch saffron threads
1/2 teaspoon togarashi (Japanese pepper)
4 ounces extra virgin olive oil
4 ounces canola oil
Hawaiian sea salt, to taste
Put egg yolks, garlic, juices, saffron and togarashi in blender and pulse for 10 seconds. Slowly add olive oil and canola oil at high speed until thick and creamy and all oil is used. Season with salt and pepper.
Mark Grosz, Oceanique