Who says, “I’m going to the hotel bar”? You should be. This summer has been flushed with hotel bar and restaurant openings, from the collective of options at the Chicago Athletic Association to Bar Allegro in Hotel Allegro. The Virgin and Loews hotels are even upping their rooftop game, with the late-April opening of Virgin’s Cerise, and Loews’ Streeterville Social, which opened in late June. There’s nothing like downtown Chicago in the summertime on a rooftop, so we visited both on a Friday night to see if they’re worth the wait.
Cerise
203 N. Wabash Ave. 312-940-4774
Sitting on the 26th floor of the Virgin Hotel, Cerise is considered the “cherry on top” of the Loop hotel, according to staff members. It’s one of five dining and drinking options in the hotel, but definitely has the best view.
Streeterville Social
455 N. Park Drive, 312-840-6600
This bistro-terrace combo sits on the third level of the Loews Hotel. The 9,000-square-foot space seats about 280 and offers a highly underrated view of the city.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Cerise: I got to the Virgin Hotel with a friend around 6:30 p.m. on a Friday. I heard a line starts to form outside at 6 p.m., and I was in a bit of a rush because I wasn’t sure my Keds followed the “casual-chic dress code beginning at 8 p.m. nightly,” per the hotel’s website. There were about 20 people in front of us, and the door guy said they allow in about six at a time. While I hate waiting, I later appreciated staggering the crowd. (Pro tip: If you want the line to move faster, start talking about the season finale of “Dexter.” I can’t confirm that this will work every time, but three people in front of us left in a hurry as soon as we started potentially ruining the ending of the Showtime series about a serial killer vigilante that ended in 2013.)
We waited about 25 minutes before we got in, but time seemed to pass quickly in good company. A doorperson led us through the hotel to a staircase that goes to a separate elevator, which goes straight up to Cerise with hardly any interruptions by hotel guests. Things got funkier the wider the elevator doors opened, as the DJ’s smooth ’70s jams crept in. So far, so good.
Streeterville Social: My initial thought upon setting foot in the River North hotel lobby: It smells like rich people (aka expensive perfume). It was almost 9 p.m. when I got there. (This was my second attempt after learning there was an hour-and-a-half wait just after 6 p.m. I did leave my name, though, and got a call that a table opened up about 30 minutes later.) I took the elevator up to the bar, where I was greeted by smiling hostesses and a buzzing crowd on either side. There was still a wait, but the wedding reception that was on the terrace earlier was gone, so I left my name and number and hung out there until my table was ready. Instantly, I felt much more relaxed among the grass and the trees. The sun had gone down at this point, so the view was all city lights for days.
THE VIBE
Cerise: Cerise truly feels like a lounge. It’s not quite the Chelsea bar Bed, featured in “Sex and the City,” but with the round, brightly colored gathering couches (where we sat), tall-back booths with stacks of cushions and other wide couches, kicking back with your feet up isn’t frowned upon. The navy, cerulean blue and lime green color scheme screams summer, and with people draped across the couches and curled up in chairs, it’s like you’re hanging out in someone’s outdoor living room.
Streeterville Social: The large, open green space on the terrace is amazing. Build a garden in the sky, and I’m there. The flower beds, tall grass and Japanese maple trees are a breath of fresh air and a spectacular contrast to the surrounding urban jungle of towering man-made buildings. Along with ultra-modern sofas and bird cage-like swing chairs, there are yard games, such as cornhole and giant Jenga, which admittedly feel a bit yuppie. At night, it’s definitely a relaxing and intimate space to snuggle up with a date. Compared with the high energy surrounding Cerise, Streeterville Social’s terrace is peaceful and serene. My table was ready after about 40 minutes, but life was better before the phone call.
As I moved into the bar area, one word came to mind: loud. I think I actually experienced culture shock moving from one section to the other because of the deafening clubby music blasting from the bar. That peaceful relaxation I felt on the terrace quickly disappeared. Along with the loud music, the tables were so wide that it made hearing friends even more difficult. I’d imagine they’re great for a business meeting or an awkward Tinder date, when you want to keep your distance. I asked Loews Hotel food and beverage director Nathaniel Brethold about the music, and he said it’s usually pretty jazzy and mostly just for background noise, so maybe it was a fluke.
THE CROWD
Cerise: It’s a mixed bag of trendy young and older people—the super lax in flip-flops, the post-work crowd, the low-key bougie and the dripping-with-designer-clothing set. Bare shoulders and blowouts abound. The bar was definitely full, but not exploding with people (good call on staggering the crowd). It’s a lively bunch, and I loved the DJ, who dished out ’70s rock, from Wings’ “Silly Love Songs” to King Harvest’s “Dancing in the Moonlight.” This Friday night is all right.
Streeterville Social: A young casual crowd filled the bar that night. Couples in polos and denim snuggled up on the terrace side. A few suits on the prowl leaned against the bar on the bistro side, while groups of chatty girls filled the couches. The large tables are great for group outings, which there were many of that night.
THE VIEW
Cerise: Lake view or river view? Take your pick. The outdoor seating wraps around three sides of the building, boasting incredible architectural angles you probably haven’t seen. Look south and the view stretches on for miles down Wabash Avenue. Look west for an up-close glimpse of the ornate Jewelers’ Building, Al Capone’s old hangout. To the north is the river and sparkling Trump Tower. Just a tall glass wall separates you from the sky.
Streeterville Social: The space offers a unique, unobstructed look at the city we wouldn’t get elsewhere. It’s not at the top of a skyscraper, but that’s part of its charm. It’s like you’re floating just above the trees, so you’re among the twinkling city lights, rather than above them. Being so far east, you get a look at sides of buildings you normally don’t see. From the terrace, peek at Navy Pier to the east and Tribune Tower to the west.
THE MENU
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Cerise: Made up of warm-weather cocktails and Japanese-inspired bites, the menu is certainly appropriate for a rooftop. Most of the cocktails are $13, and the first two we tried, The Back Alley and Virgin Summer Cup, which is apparently the best seller, were just all right. I was sold on the second round, though. The light and summery Beach Betty (rum, banana liqueur, lime juice, grenadine and coconut extract) was vacation in a glass with perfectly blended coconut and banana flavors (I may or may not have gone back for this cocktail twice already since). The Iaca (acai liqueur, lime juice, St. Germain and spiced rose syrup made in-house with dried rose petals and cardamom) was just as fantastic, with hints of herbs and cotton candy.
On the food front, there’s a limited selection of izakaya choices, or small bites, from shrimp and ginger-pork dumplings to sashimi. We went for the crabby patty ($9) and Japanese chicken wings ($9), which are actually chicken skins. The plates were small but super tasty. The crabby patty, with lemons, thai basil, sweet peas and kewpie mayo, was a bit on the saucy side but balanced tangy and sweet flavors effortlessly. The wings were more like meatballs on a stick. My friend said each bite had an Asian zing to it, and she loved the skins. Eating outside was a bit odd, however, with tiny stools that hardly accommodated our plates, and our server seemed too busy buzzing around larger crowds to pay much attention to us. Maybe it was our shoes. I’d suggest ordering drinks from one of the two bars, where the service is much better.
Streeterville Social: The drink menu includes takes on tiki drinks and classic cocktails and an extensive rose-by-the-glass selection (Brethold says it’s one of the most extensive in the city). The cocktails we went for (all $14) weren’t anything to write home about, but a few new ones were added after I visited. They did come in the fanciest plastic cups I’ve ever seen, which was a bit of a surprise. I know not everyone is worth the fancy crystal, but do they not trust us? Between the plastic cups and the suited crowd, I think Monica Geller and Barney Stinson would be happy here.
The food is based on street eats, with chicken wings, fries and a chili Fritos concoction called the Belly Buster. Vegetarians beware, there’s not much here for you right now, but Brethold said the menu is constantly evolving. I went for the oyster po’ boy, sans chorizo ($15). It comes with a clam broth and is meant to be dipped, which I thought was interesting, but I wasn’t impressed. Maybe the chorizo really makes the sandwich. Too bad I’m not more of a meat eater. My friend tried the burger ($19) and said it was just OK. For the steep price, you get a standard cheese burger with the standard dressings and fries. Another friend who ordered the bahn mi ($14) said there weren’t any standout flavors. The food was good, but there were a lot of missed opportunities. As it stands now, I’d say the cocktails and food selections aren’t worth the price, but there’s room to grow. Plus, Streeterville Social just rolled out its new dim sum carts this week on the terrace side, with nightly specials, like baba ganoush and mussels, that I’m looking forward to going back to try.
THE VERDICT
Cerise: It’s well worth the wait. Although we were unsure about our first round of drinks, the cocktails were easily some of the best I’ve had all summer. With spectacular views and a hip crowd, the lounge in the sky that is Cerise should top your summer bucket list.
Streeterville Social: With such contrasting experiences on either side, is it worth a trip? Absolutely. But skip the bar side for now, and hang out on the terrace. Get yourself a glass of wine, and take full advantage of the loungey furniture and the views. That’s what they’re there for.