What a great, soulful dish this is. The name is Costa Rican and Nicaraguan. Cubans call it “moros y cristianos” (to be blunt, “blacks and whites,” because of the mix of black beans and white rice). We have it, ’round New Year’s time, in our Southern states, as “Hoppin’ John.” You may add some ham hock, fatback, bacon or andouille if you want some more protein (or, let’s be honest, fat and flavor). Lots of wines would work, because many whites, pinks and light reds have what it takes to do the do: acidity, moderate alcohol, low tannin.
THE FOOD
Gallo pinto (Beans and rice)
Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over medium heat; add 3 cloves garlic, minced, and 1 medium onion, chopped. Cook until onion is golden, about 5 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon each ground cumin, ground coriander and ground ginger; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add 2 cans (15 ounces each) black beans, drained, rinsed; cook, stirring, until heated through, about 3 minutes. Stir in 1 cup cooked long-grain rice; cook, stirring, until heated through, about 2 minutes. Stir in 3 tablespoons steak sauce. Serve with chopped cilantro, tomatoes and green onions, plus sour cream. Makes: 4 servings
Recipe by Robin Mather
THE WINES
2013 Ovum Riesling Off the Grid, Cedar Ranch Vineyard, Oregon: Slightly sweet — embrace the sugar, people! — it’s perfect for richly concocted foods that themselves have cooked sweetness into them. $28
2012 Norman Hardie Winery Pinot Noir County, Ontario, Canada: What a winner pinot, for its earthy, minerally edge; lean, elegant fruit; super dry, crisp finish; from some of the more marginal vineyards in North America and shows its breed. $35
2012 Ravines Wine Cellars Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes, New York: If pinot noir wanted to be cabernet, this is how it would do it. $19