Craig Schoettler, formerly of Chicago’s Aviary and Drumbar, stocks some interesting items behind the bar at Sage, an upscale restaurant just off the casino floor at the Aria resort.
There are the usual swizzle sticks and lemon twists, but there’s also cotton candy. And a propane torch. For Schoettler, a 28-year-old master of mixology, they’re curious tools of the trade.
While the servers can produce a Bud or a Miller, they try to tempt diners with one-of-a-kind concoctions such as Smoke Missing Mirrors.
Brandishing the torch, Schoettler put the flame to a chunk of wood from a barrel in which bourbon was once aged. When the slab glowed red, he placed a glass over it, trapping the smoke inside. He then added the liquid ingredients, including top-shelf cognac, vermouth and homemade lavender bitters.
“I want to create an experience,” he explained. “You don’t just drink with your mouth. You drink with your eyes. You drink with your nose.”
As “property mixologist,” Schoettler creates unique drinks not only for Sage, but for all 17 bars and restaurants at Aria. He believes that not all bartenders are mixologists, just as not all cooks are chefs.
Up and down the Strip, experts — those who truly can be called mixologists — are working hard to convince visitors that the Vegas cocktail scene extends well beyond frozen margaritas in souvenir mugs.
For Tony Abou-Ganim, who bills himself as the Modern Mixologist, it’s all about fresh ingredients and premium spirits. His Cable Car, a blend of spiced rum, Curacao orange liqueur and fresh lemon sour, has been the Bellagio’s signature cocktail since the resort opened nearly 17 years ago.
Across the street at Caesars Palace, Abou-Ganim recently created eight unique, tongue-tempting drinks available only at the Lobby Bar. Among them is one he calls Cleopatra’s Smile.
The Smile is made using Ketel One Citroen Vodka, Aperol Apertivo, Pavan Liqueur, fresh-squeezed grapefruit and lemon juices and clover honey syrup. Abou-Ganim doesn’t believe a frozen daiquiri straight from a swirling machine will ever taste the same after people have tried one of his colorful creations.
“They can’t go back to those imitation, artificial (drinks) that leave baggage on the roof of your mouth,” he said. “Once you give a guest a better experience and expose them to a better product, you educate them and in turn change their perspective.”
Abou-Ganim added that bartending is only now starting to recover from the death knell delivered by Prohibition nearly a century ago.
“I would say that we are now in the second coming of the golden age of cocktails, and it’s wonderful,” he said.
That opinion is wholeheartedly shared by Philip Dow, beverage manager at the Monte Carlo resort.
“We’re really in the rise of neo-classic cocktails,” he said. “We’re asking, ‘Why did we ever go away from this?’ “
During the mixology classes he teaches, Dow shows Vegas visitors how to make some of his favorites. One that he sometimes demonstrates, and then serves, is the Clover Club, an early 20th century mix of gin, raspberry syrup, lemon juice and egg white.
“It’s an amazing drink,” he said.
Dow encourages his guests to get out of their comfort zone when it comes to cocktails.
“It’s like a spice rack,” he explained. “It’s got 30 different spices, but you only ever use six of them. Why don’t you use the others? Because you don’t know any better.
“If this class can open up people’s minds to trying something different,” he continued, “you’re going to open yourself to a whole new world of what the cocktail should be.”
Modern-day drinkers can even get a serving of veggies while imbibing. One of the offerings at Brand Steakhouse at Monte Carlo is a far cry from a V8. Fresno chilis provide the fire for Heat of the Moment, a drink that also includes Espolon Blanco Tequila, lime and passion fruit. Two chilis cleverly create “horns” on the rim of the glass.
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Basil, cucumbers and red bell peppers are among the other ingredients used by cocktail creators.
“Barflies are becoming more like foodies,” Schoettler pointed out. “They want to know if the veggies are fresh, if they’re organic.”
“There’s always going to be an audience for everything,” Abou-Ganim conceded. “(But) as our guests get exposed to better drinks, they become more demanding.”
Back at Sage, the demand is strong for the Pink Cashmere. A mixture of Leopold Bros. gin, St. Germain liqueur and fresh lemon juice is poured over a glass full of fluffy, berry-flavored cotton candy. Prepared tableside, the clear drink turns pink as the spun sugar dissolves. Surprisingly, it’s not sickly sweet.
“The cocktail is reverse engineered for that amount of cotton candy,” Schoettler said. “If you taste the cocktail without the cotton candy, it’s not sweet enough.”
The Monte Carlo’s in-house mixology class lasts two hours and costs $75. To participate, people must first enroll in MGM Resorts’ M life rewards program, but that’s free to join. For further information, call the Monte Carlo concierge at 877-459-0268.
Jones is a freelance reporter.