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The hamburger lacks ham, having been named, perhaps, in honor of the place — Hamburg — not the meat. Leaving the turkey burger (made of ground turkey), cheeseburger (not made of ground cheese) and veggie burger (made of bulgur) with odd-syntax relish.

I’m fond of the tuna burger, which isn’t a burger in the patty-of-compressed-bits sense. Burger status is conferred by the housing — a bun — and not the tenant — a tuna steak. The lettuce-wrapped version — bereft of patty and bun, both — somehow retains rank.

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By what authority? Perhaps the paper cloak, which suggests a certain burgerly pedigree. Perhaps the portability. Or perhaps the fact that it’s quick, savory and delicious. Proof enough.

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Find all your favorite stories and recipes in Leah Eskin’s memoir, “Slices of Life: A Food Writer Cooks Through Many a Conundrum.” Available wherever books are sold.

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Tuna burger

Prep: 5 minutes

Cook: 6 minutes

Makes: 4 servings

4 portions (4 ounces each) tuna fillet, each 1/2-inch thick

Olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 soft hamburger buns, such as potato rolls (or substitute a sturdy lettuce leaf)

1/2 cup wasabi aioli, see recipe

2 cups kale salad, see recipe

4 slices red onion

4 slices ripe red tomato, lightly salted

1. Grill: Brush tuna with oil; season lightly with salt and pepper. Heat a wide cast-iron griddle (or skillet) over medium-high. Sizzle tuna to your liking, about 3 minutes per side for medium.

2. Build: Open buns. Spread each side with 1 tablespoon wasabi aioli. Heap onto each bottom bun: 1/2 cup kale salad, 1 slice onion, 1 slice tomato and one portion tuna. Top with top bun. Wrap in butcher paper. Munch.

Wasabi aioli: Stir together 1/2 cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon prepared wasabi paste, 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley, 1 finely chopped clove garlic.

Kale salad: Cut away ribs from 1 bunch lacinato kale. Thinly slice crosswise. Rinse and spin dry. In a large bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons sesame oil, 1 tablespoon red miso paste, 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots, 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt. Toss in the kale and 1/2 a peeled cucumber, finely chopped. Toss. Chill 8 to 24 hours. Toss again.

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Provenance: Adapted from CP Burger, Aspen, Colo.