Bread means food, job, money. Bread is heavy.
Roll means roll. It’s light.
In the mind’s pantry, the two are rarely shelved together.
I was mindful of these distinctions when I set out to make Parker House rolls, those fluffy butterballs served at the starched-tablecloth restaurant. My husband looked dubious. Then explained, “Why?”
I thought they sounded tasty, holiday-compatible and — frankly — foreign. Parker House rolls do not roll across the Jewish table.
I mixed a dough rich with milk, sugar, butter and egg. I kneaded, rolled and folded. I baked and buttered and bit. Then gasped. Parker House rolls may be tasty and holiday-compatible. But not foreign. They’re a handheld version of challah. Two traditions; one recipe. How’s that for heavy?
Parker House rolls
Prep: 45 minutes
Wait: 2 hours
Bake: 30 minutes
Makes: 24 rolls
2 1/4 teaspoons (1 envelope) active dry yeast
3 tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons warm water
1 cup warm whole milk
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
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9 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
About 3 1/2 cups flour
Flaky salt
1. Proof: In a small bowl, whisk yeast and a pinch of the sugar into the warm water. Let rest until creamy, about 5 minutes.
2. Mix: In a large bowl, mix together milk, remaining sugar, the kosher salt and 6 tablespoons butter. Stir in yeast mixture. Stir in enough flour to form a sticky dough.
3. Knead: Turn out onto a lightly floured surface; knead, dusting with flour if needed, to a smooth, elastic, soft dough, about 4 minutes.
4. Rest: Brush a large bowl with butter. Settle in dough ball, turning to coat with butter. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let rest until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours.
5. Shape: Pat dough into a rectangle; slice into 24 equal portions. Roll each into a ball, about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. With a rolling pin, flatten each ball into an oval about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. Brush with butter. Fold oval in half; pinch to close into a butter-filled half-moon.
6. Rest: Brush a 13-by-9-inch baking pan with butter. Arrange half-moons in 4 rows, overlapping a bit if needed. Cover pan with plastic. Let rest until puffy, about 30 minutes. Brush with butter.
7. Bake: Slide into a 350-degree oven; bake until golden, about 30 minutes. Brush with butter, sprinkle with flaky salt. Turn out rolls, salt side up. Enjoy warm.
Note: Many a Parker House roll recipe calls for egg. I prefer this eggless version.
Crave more Leah?
Find all your favorite stories and recipes in Leah Eskin’s memoir, “Slices of Life: A Food Writer Cooks Through Many a Conundrum.” Available wherever books are sold.