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Once upon a time, Xoco served the finest churros in Chicago, until new kid in town Salero knocked it from its perch. Piped and fried to order, the ephemeral ribbons are 99.2 percent air, held together by a miracle of physics with the crispiest gossamer exterior. These churros are a proper plated dessert, three-quarters of the way to a Spanish affogato, with salted whipped chocolate, espresso pudding and milk jam. No doubt one of our city’s classiest versions of coffee and doughnuts.

621 W. Randolph St., 312-466-1000, salerochicago.com