Q: I would like to know the reason objects are closer than they appear in the passenger rearview mirror. You have to recalculate your vision while driving and I see no advantage to this at all.
–J.J., Berwyn, Ill.
A: It is a safety issue. There is a large blind area on the right side of the vehicle. The convex mirror reflects a larger field of view than a flat mirror, but in doing so, the reflection is distorted making things appear smaller and, hence, further away than they actually are.
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Q: What should be included in a complete auto tuneup? Are there some basic items, either doing it myself and at a dealer? What would be a reasonable cost?
–J.G., Canton, Conn.
A: There is no such thing as a tuneup anymore. In the dark ages of motoring (before electronics and digital controls), ignition points and spark plugs would wear out after about 12,000 miles. Carburetors would drift out of calibration, as would the ignition timing. Cars would begin running crappy like a cheap piano and need to be tuned up. There are no ignition points now. Spark plugs have platinum or iridium electrodes that can last up to 100,000 miles. Computers handle the fuel injection and ignition timing and constantly make adjustments should things start to drift. If the engine is not running right, it needs a performance analysis, not a tuneup. The do-it-yourselfer can do little beyond changing spark plugs. There is no way to come up with a standard price.
Q: Two years ago, I had my cooling system on my 2001 six-cylinder Honda Accord power flushed. Recently a mechanic stated that my coolant was good for only 10 degrees below zero. I asked him that if I added fresh coolant to the old mixture, would that bring the range of below zero to a higher number. He stated that I needed a complete system flush. Your opinion please.
–L.A., Westmont, Ill.
A: How are your math skills? The required amount of antifreeze to be added (and coolant replaced) could be solved using calculus. Although it could be done, it would be much simpler to do a drain and refill the cooling system. Since a flush was done a couple years ago, you don’t need to go to that extreme.
Q: I have a 1973 Buick Centurion with a 455 CID engine. The car runs rough on idle in both Park and Drive. I have allowed several local shops to try to fix with no luck. Do you know anyone in the Chicago area that knows and understands how to fix these old Buicks inside and out?
–R.V., Lombard, Ill.
A: We are sorry, but we can’t turn you onto any specific shop or technician. However, you may want to check out this link to a list of Buick enthusiast websites: http://www.buick.com/experience/enthusiast-sites.html. We used to have a Buick Wildcat with a 455. Wish we still had it.
Q: I have a 2002 Chevy S-10. I blew a brake line out from rust. Three of the four calipers had to be replaced because they could not be bled. I asked for antiseize on the new bleeder valves and the GM mechanic told me he was unsure about the interaction of that product with brake fluid. This was a $1,000 repair for one line because of the dreaded rusted brake bleeder valves. Can I use antiseize on brake bleeder threads without contaminating the brake fluid?
–T.B., Geneva, Ill.
A: We see no problem using a little dab of antiseize compound only on the threads that are not close to the hole for the brake fluid. In this case, less is more.
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