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Hearth and home get cozy in the political speech and needlepoint pillow. I’m clear on home. Hearth? Not so much. Fireplace? Big fireplace? Big fireplace with cauldron? Like speechifying and needlepoint: Nothing I need.

Then I went to Parts and Labor. The Baltimore restaurant ushers each order of pork jowl or blood sausage from butcher shop to plate — by way of hearth. A massive counter-height 10-foot-long slab of soapstone hearth. The chefs build a series of oak-fueled fires along its surface. They grill steaks like bavette and blade over the flames and keep a cauldron of cowboy beans bubbling in the embers.

I was struck dumb with admiration. Suddenly my home needed a hearth. I needed to build fire, grill meat and ladle beans. I was willing to deliver bold speeches and stitch tiny pillows in praise of the classic combo.

Neither of which is likely to kindle kitchen renovation. So I’ll settle for the cauldron of cowboy beans. They bubble becomingly, even over the electric coil.

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Cowboy beans

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: 2 hours

Serves: 6 as a side dish

3 slices bacon, thinly sliced crosswise

1 onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon chili powder

2 cans (15 ounces each) pinto beans, drained, rinsed

1 cup finely chopped tomatoes (fresh or canned)

1/2 cup barbecue sauce

1 tablespoon adobo (or other spicy) sauce, see note

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Red wine vinegar

1 Crisp: Heat a medium Dutch oven over medium. When it’s hot, scatter in bacon and cook, stirring, until crisp and brown, about 4 minutes. Scoop out bacon for snacking or garnish.

2 Soften: Tumble in onions. Cook, stirring, until golden, about 4 minutes. Tumble in garlic and chili powder; stir a few seconds.

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3 Simmer: Stir in remaining ingredients, except vinegar. Add enough water to cover beans. Heat to a boil; lower heat, cover and simmer until thick (with some sauce lingering) and flavorful, about 2 hours.

4 Serve: Taste; add a little salt, more heat, or sharpen up with a few shakes of vinegar. Serve (with or without bacon shards) alongside grilled meat.

Note: Spoon up spicy adobo sauce from a can of chipotle peppers.

Crave more Leah?

Find all your favorite stories and recipes in Leah Eskin’s memoir, “Slices of Life: A Food Writer Cooks Through Many a Conundrum.” Available wherever books are sold.