Pizza review: Elio Pizza on Fire
2360 N. Lincoln Ave. 773-649-1000
Rating: !! 1/2 (out of four)
For all its proximity to the appetites of DePaul students, it’s amazing how few pizza joints line a particular stretch of Lincoln Avenue in Lincoln Park. (OK, there’s a Domino’s, sorry.) So it seems Elio Pizza on Fire, the second outpost of a family-run woodfire pizzeria that originated in west-suburban Addison, has its market all locked up.
But it’s not the hordes of students who chef/co-owner Elio Bartolotta, a native of Palermo, Italy, was after when he settled in the ‘hood—it’s the history. “Our building is 120 years old,” he said. “Basically we tried to choose an old-style location, because, like I say, our product is coming from the old world.” That means pizzas ($9.75-$16.25), bruschetta ($6.80-$9.80) and other menu items are made with ingredients sourced directly from Italy.
After nearly being lured in, straight off the sidewalk, by a skinny sample slice the restaurant was handing out to draw new customers, I stopped by on a recent weeknight to see if I’d find a true Italian experience.
The crust: Chewy and just the right amount of fluffy, Elio’s pies benefit from the short time they spend in a natural wood fire oven—hence the Pizza on Fire. (“No gas, no electrical,” Bartolotta said.) If you’re inclined toward pizzas that are fun to tear with your teeth, you’ve come to the right spot.
The sauce: Elio’s red sauce, made with fresh San Marzano plum tomatoes and found on our Hawaiian pizza (and the traditional margherita pizza, pictured below), is definitely on the sweeter side. My date and I were divided on this one; I found the flavor pleasantly tangy, while he thought it was overwhelmingly saccharine. More for me. However, we agreed that the Rucolina, featuring only extra-virgin olive oil beneath its cheese, needed garlic, black pepper or another burst of flavor to elevate it from bland.
The toppings: Though Elio’s pies come in a multitude of flavors, there’s no create-your-own option—just trust that the chef knows best here. My date and I chose the Rucolina ($12.05), topped with prosciutto parma, mozzarella and a veritable garden’s worth of arugula; and the American-pleasing Hawaiian ($11.77), whose super-sweet pineapple played nicely off the salty ham.
Other stuff: Elio serves a selection of traditional salads, including a delicious caesar ($7.25) whose dressing clearly had been made moments before arriving at the table. Also on deck: bruschetta, antipasti, calzones, focaccia and, one non-Italian selection, crepes. (Though Bartolotta did make a point of noting that Nutella is Italian.)
The service: Our server was warm and friendly, and Bartolotta himself dropped by the table to see how we’d enjoyed our experience. A surprise Nutella crepe was a tasty touch.
The scene: To be honest, it was kind of … dead. At first glance, the restaurant seems more set up for take-out service, and only two other tables were occupied. The interior was cozy though, with fake flaming sconces on the warm brown walls and that night’s episode of “Parenthood” on the TV. Gotta catch up somehow.
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The bottom line: In the future, I’ll lean toward Elio’s more traditional options like the margherita ($10.75) and Biancaneve ($9.75); the white pizza I tasted especially needed more punch. Pies are large enough for two people to share, meaning this is a solid option for a low-cost night in if you live in the neighborhood.
Reporters visit restaurants unannounced and meals are paid for by RedEye. [email protected] | @redeyedana